Skopje is certainly an interesting city. A city that actually became more interesting to me as I was there and since I hitchhiked my way out of it. From Prishtina, Kosovo, I arrived by bus passing by the city’s fortress overlooking the city center gazing at some of the massive statues that dominate the city. These statues along are half of the reason why this city has become interesting, at least for me. Locals will have a different attitude.
Skopje 2014, is the title for the infamous makeover of much of the city center. In 2014, the entire city was dotted with seemingly endless amounts of statues of native Macedonians, some of which flared up the noses of Greeks in the northern region of the same name. The statues range in size from smaller ones on some of the newly built bridges to the two massive ones that depict Phillip the Macedon and Alexander the Great (Greek noses begin to flare), although the titles of them are called “Warrior” and “Warrior on Horse”.
When you walk around Skopje, you notice that there are two distinct and opposite sides. The side I mentioned is what I called the “new” side. With new museums, a new arch, massive open center with an active fountain and lights surrounding the massive “warrior on horse”. But when you cross the old Stone Bridge crossing over the Vardar, the river that separates the city, you find yourself walking around the old side, or better yet, the historic side.
On the east side of the river you can walk up and into the historic Kale fortress, home to what once was the Serbian Kingdom. Below the fortress is the Old Bazaar, a maze of walkways that resemble a little Istanbul. Without researching too much of Skopje, this side of Skopje was a surprise and a treat, especially since Istanbul was my first city on my 5 and a half month Balkan voyage. And yes, the call to prayer is heard several times a day from the Mosque megaphones. I love it!
All in all, Skopje is a city that should not be missed on a trip in the Balkans, if you are passing from Belgrade to Thessaloniki/Athens or vise versa. Oh yea, there are oddly and surpisingly tons of double decker buses all over the city. 🙂
Most people who come to Europe check out the commercial destination in the west, missing out of the insane beauty of the Balkans. My first visit to Europe brought me to Central Europe. Hungary, Slovakia, Austria, and Czechia. How’s that for traditional. My return did bring me to The Netherland, Belgium, and Luxembourg, a choice made for my ex-girlfriend and turning out to be an incredible choice for me. But the Balkans is where I spent most of my time and my god, I couldn’t get enough. Spending two months in all of the former Yugoslavia means I did spend some time in Montenegro, and that is what I did.
For those who know about Montenegro, the first thought may be Kotor Bay, a destination I would have regretted missing journeying throughout the Balkans. This place is INSANE! It’s a sight that is hard to take in. Majestic is word that pops up in my mind every time. If anyone has traveled the fjords in south New Zealand or Norway will find that the geography here looks very familiar. Minus the snow, Kotor Bay is a beautiful mashup of history with it’s historic town of Kotor, touch of the tropics with a refreshing swim in the bay, all surrounded my high mountains that shoot straight up into the sky.
I stayed in two places in Kotor Bay but rode throughout 80 percent of the bay. Here is what I did and is a must do when traveling here.
Perast
Hands down one of the most memorable stays in my travels so far is my one night stay in the picturesque town of Perast. In the center of Kotor Bay is this tiny historic village with views of just about most of the bay including the inlet where the occasional cruise ship will pass. Although there are many restaurants and cafes in town, I enjoyed cheap ham and cheese sandwiches at the vendor in front of the town church, sitting at the edge, and taking it all in. The reason why I stayed here was:
1) I wanted to experience something other than just Kotor town.
2) The islands at the center of the bay were a short boat ride away.
In the center of the lake are two islands both with churches, one being artificial made of rocks. For $5 Euros you can take an amazing boat ride to these islands with incredible 360 views of the entire bay, on or off the boat. Had I spent more time and made friends with locals, I could have maybe gotten lucky to enjoy a brew, music, and cannonballing into the bay on a boat. Hey, there is always next time. 😀 For US standards, lodging is dirt cheap in Perast. Ranging from 15 Euros and up, you can have a nice and decent room, some with a great view of the bay. For me, I paid 40 Euros in a really nice room, with a small kitchen, spiral stairway up to a bed and bathroom, a small dining room table a window that opens up to half of the bay including the islands I mentioned. Amazing!
Kotor
Hitching a ride from a friendly Serb from Belgrade, I arrived in Kotor post storm with clouds hugging the mountains above town. Coming from Perast, I was dissapointed in the hordes of tourists flocking off of buses and a cruise ship, otherwise Kotor is a beautiful town. Roaming the maze of the streets gazing at the evolution of architecture from the changes of rule throughout the centuries. Venturing away from the noise, I proudly lost myself in a seemingly secret path to a small valley leading up to a tiny waterfall, with many places to take a cold dip. I called this my happy place!
Above the town is a fortress that overlooks Kotor and part of the bay. But If you have the courage, motivation, stamina, an leg muscles, GO FURTHER. Aside from being cheap (financially strategic) in paying to enter a fortress, I decided to have my own few for only the cost of sweat, heavy breathing and my Ipod on shuffle. Zig zagging up for about 2 hours brought me to my second happy place. After setting my bag down and catching my breath, I took a seat and took in the view of a lifetime, overlooking the surrounding mountains, the tiny dots of tourists at the fortress who thing they have a great view, all of Kotor town, and half of the bay. And due to perfect timing, I caught one hell of a sunset.
A Taste of Crna Gora
I am proud to have seen so many incredible places so far on this grand journey, but Kotor Bay is surely up there on my seemingly endless list. It’s not all Montenegro has to offer. You can voyage down the Adriatic coastline down to Ulcinj like I did. OR, head inland and get a taste of heaven in the mountains, what I need to do next time. Anywho, Kotor Bay was surely one hell of a highlight during my time in Montenegro, and for those who visit Montenegro, if you miss out of this, you will surely regret it. 😉
First thing you might ask yourself when you see the title is, semi-hidden? Ulcinj is certainly not unknown, but also not bombarded by mass tourism. How I discovered this place is exactly how I learned about 90% of the Balkans, curiosity. At my former work desk, there was one day where I scoped out the Montenegrin coast via Google maps and at the southernmost point I discovered the city of Ulcinj.
Several years later, here I am travel savvy of the Balkans, enjoying the Montenegrin coast, and fulfilling my curiosity about this incredible city on the sea. Although I was well aware of my intentions of being here, I really didn’t dive into what this city had to offer, let alone what’s here. Upon arrival, it took me by surprise. It’s quite obvious that Albania is only a few kilometers away, but this city felt more exotic than where I had been spending my time.
What I love about this city is it’s old town. The old town sit’s on a hill/rock (not sure what) and overlooks the sea, with a bar outside of the walls with music to have a drink…and go for a swim. The walkways like most other cities on the Adriatic are narrow with old grey bricks with the sounds of families chatting in their homes with open window panels. And nearby, is a cove beach with many cafes, restaurants, and clubs on the water. After spending a month on rock/pebble beaches (not that I am complaining), it was nice to finally walk on soft sand.
On my journey, I sadly did not spend much time here due to the fact that 1) I was racing to the Aegean Sea before peak season. and 2) Running out of my budget. But had I stayed here longer than one night, I would have stayed a few days. This city is incredible, but there is so much to enjoy in this region of the country as well, from Bojana island in the south to spending time on Lake Skadar. Well, there is always reason to return and give the region more time. As for you, check it out, you won’t regret it. 🙂
I have been traveling for many years with several trips to new places every year. Like most Americans, the thought of hitchhiking is always negative. It’s almost like telling someone I am staying in a hostel and getting the “you’re going to die” reaction. Hitchhiking is not exactly on the same page as far as that example goes but it does make sense. Hitchhiking actually was a common thing to do in American many years ago but unfortunately murders and the press gave the travel option a bad rep.
As far as this trip goes, two months so far in Europe, I have strayed away from hitchhiking pretty strongly. Ever since I landed in Istanbul, I have been on a pretty intense couchsurfing binge. And ever since I landed in Istanbul until now, the heart of Romania, every single person has suggested hitchhiking. Each person has tons of hitchhiking stories and so far almost all of them are fantastic with the occasional one or two weirdos. Some of these couchsurfers even try strongly persuading me. But my response has always been no.
Crossing into Romania was a ridiculous trip on it’s own and really pushed me to include hitchhiking as an option, even though I still refused to. Romania was the country where I finally used BlaBlacar, a rideshare app used to help drivers get some cash flow for empty seats on a long or short commute. I used it four time across Romania and had incredible experiences. But still, I won’t hitchhike. It wasn’t until one week into Romania, in Turda returning to Cluj where I considered it. I felt confident in doing some hitchhiking. But as soon as I put my thumb out, a intercity bus came. And right before, a bird shit on my chest. That’s definitely not a good look for hitching a ride.
A rideshare to Sibiu, and two trains later I find myself in Brasov, the infamous city at the foot of the mountains with a beautiful town center. Everyone told me I should visit Brasov because they loved it and can agree and see why. It’s a beautiful big town close to the mountains. Fortunate for me it was nice an cool, especially good for a nice break from the direct sunlight. On one full day, I used it wisely to visit both the Bran castle and Rasnov fortress.
I wasn’t too impressed with Bran since it looked so small and overpriced, not to forget overcrowded with annoying hoards of kids. After walking around the castle on the road and a nice walk around the small village museum, I felt really confident about hitchhiking, especially since I had no clue where the bus picks you up. So I walked north towards Brasov at the edge of town, found a spot to be seen well, and after a month of fear, i killed that fear by putting my thumb out to drivers. Not even 15 seconds later, a Romanian man in a heavy duty pick up truck pulled aside to pick me up. I can remember so well, how happy he was to pick up a smiling tourist, who he later found out to be American which made him even happier.
This first experience was a short 11 KM, 20 minute ride basically from village to village. But it was incredible and broke my long fear of hitchhiking. What made him even happier was that I was his first hitchhiking ride. Despite the language barrier, he understood me, and saw how honored he felt. It was an incredible ball of happiness between two strangers who became friends for 20 minutes. Fortunately he was stopping to get a haircut in Rasnov and dropped me off at a good walking distance from the Fortress. I shook his hand, said thank you in Romanian, and taught me some words in Romanian. It was an amazing connection between us and can see how many people have such great stories with hitchhiking. Of course you have the one or two awkward situations, but regardless it an incredible experience making friends on the road. I discovered another means to travel. 🙂 Yay me!
December 2016 : As I reflect on my amazing 6 month journey in Europe, I am forever a changed traveler. Since that time in Romania, I have hitchhiked about 50 additional times in Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonia, Albania, and finally Greece. One mishap being on a not so traveled road and another in mainland Greece where hitchhiking has died. Otherwise, I have had some of the best experiences meeting amazing people while also saving money. It has changed my world of travel and expect to continue hitchhiking wherever I go. 🙂 Thanks to Romania and thanks to that awesome dude in the photo below! 🙂
Bosnia & Herzegovina is a country in southern Europe in the Balkans. It borders just about all of Croatia to the north, east, and south, Serbia to the east, and Montenegro in the south. Once a republic of Yugoslavia, the country is fully independent but with an very unfortunate recent history. In fact, the past 100 years haven’t been so…awesome. From the assassination of Austria’s archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo which started WW1, the cross roads of fascist attacks during WW2, and the tragic scars of the Bosnian War during Yugoslavia’s breakup in the 90’s.
Bosnia certainly was not the place to be in the early to mid 90’s as war tore the nation to shreds from mass genocide to a politically segregated nation. But 20 years later, Bosnia forever remains in my memory as an amazing voyage. Here are some of the reasons why I highly recommend you add Bosnia & Herzegovina to your travel plans.
The sights
When people think of Europe, at least people I know, they think of Western European cities like London, Barcelona, Paris, Rome, etc. While I give credit to those cities, so many people miss out on even better gems that forever remain in the shadows. The Balkans (excluding Greece) is an pure example of a region that remains in the shadows. While Croatia does get a fair amount of tourism, the rest of the Balkans seems to be an adventures paradise.
Sebilj Sarajevo
Bosnia is surely one of those places that blew me away. Mostar is the most popular tourist destination in Bosnia, but I had only heard about it from browsing away at the Balkans. Mostar is home to the world famous Stari Most/ Old Bridge, a picturesque Ottoman built arch bridge connecting a town divided by a river. But aside from this town, I was blessed to see many other bridges, buildings, rivers, and mosques that were just amazing. You can have turkish style Bosnian coffee in a Cafe in Sarajevo and hike in the mountains another day. Walk old Ottoman bridges to rowing in one of the many lakes. Go riverrafting on the river and take in the sounds of the call to prayer from a ___
Food & Drink
They don’t say that Bosnia has the best Cevapi in all of the former Yugoslavia for now reason. After eating Cevapi in every republic (except Slovenia), Bosnia does in fact have the best Cevapi, I’ve ever had. But aside from that, I’ve spend a much time in a number of bakeries picking out delicious Bureks and Zeljanicas
When you think of beer, Bosnia probablt wouldn’t be the first place you think of, but the beer isn’t too bad. I’ve tried the mainstream drink Sarajevsko, brewed in yes, Sarajevo as well as ___. Even tried some wine made near Mostar in Hercegovina.
I’ve had my share of coffee in the few months that I had started drinking it. But
Cevapi
Burek with chicken
Coffee
Bosnia coffee remains in my memory as one of the most delicious I’ve ever had. Bosnian coffee is very very similar to Turkish coffee, served with a džezva but prepared slightly different. And Bosnians prefer to call it Bosnian coffee, not Turkish.
The Culture
The people I met seemed to all have pride in their country and their identity. At least in the Federation, which is the only Canton I was in during my time there. The other is the Republika Srpska and a small region called Brcko in the north. The music I heard on radios everywhere sounds like much of the rest of the Balkans, especially in the former republics, but Bosnian music certainly has it’s own touch.
What I loved about Bosnia a nation is it’s diversity. The war that occurred in the 90’s was not only just about Croats, Bosnians, and Serbs controlling a region, but religion was an issue. Aside from the war though, Bosnia was always known to be a diverse nation. Walking around Sarajevo, you can see a mosque, an orthodox church, and a catholic church within a small area. You can hear ordinary church bells ringing as well as the call to prayer in one day.
The Geography
The geography of Bosnia is beautiful! Seeing the height of the mountains upon arrival was a huge suprise for me. I honestly had no idea Bosnia has big mountains. In the winter it is possible to go skiing or snowboarding. Hell, the winter olympics of 1984 took place in Sarajevo (You can walk the former bobsleigh tracks). There are many rivers where you can go whitewater rafting and lakes to go kayaking or rowing, something I did on Jablanica jezero.
Jablanica Lake
The History
Bosnia was once reigned as a wealthy kingdom in the medieval times and later on was swallowed into the Austro-Hungarian empire. Sadly Bosnia saw some serious rough times since the early 1900’s. War has ravaged this country three times and while the number three may seem like such a low number, those three times put a serious hurting into the nation. The Bosnian War was the worst of it all and was like the climax in a movie. From mass genocide in Srebrenica, mortar shell attacks and sniper fire in Sarajevo, to ongoing fire and shelling in Mostar and just about every city in the country. I’ve met people with war artifacts and physical scars on their bodies. Bullet holes still riddle buildings and signs and destroyed buildings still stand. But despite the negative past, the nation has moved forward with some form of progression. Thanks to tourism especially. Despite the negative recent history, talking to locals about their personal experiences is a hell of an experience on it’s own.
It’s Cheap
Sarajevsko, Bosnian Beer
One thing I love about much of the Balkans despite it’s western neighbors, is that it’s really cheap. That’s where I guess I take in appreciation in the fact that Bosnia is not the first place foreigners go. Everything is really cheap based on American standards. A decent meal costs 2-3 USD, Bosnian coffee cost me $2. A museum about $3. $1 Beer. Hostel beds under $10. I would talk about transportation, but that’s where I get to my next reason…
Hitchhiking is great
Hitchhiking became a new chapter in my world of travel in the heart of Romania and at the time, I made it happen in Slovenia and Croatia. Eventually did it in Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonian Republic, Albania, and Greece. But Bosnia was hands down one of the best places to hitch rides. I started the hitchhiking journey right off of the ferry in Ploce, Croatia with an incredible woman who stopped with Medugorije and brought me to Mostar. I made it to Jablanica and then to Jablanica Lake with a guy who bent over backwards to help me find my Airbnb. To Konic and eventually to Sarajevo who went way out of his way to bring me to the street car into the center. In regards to the people I rode with, I take you to my next and final reason…
Kind People
It’s always hard for me to answer any questions that starts with, “So whats your favorite BLA BLA BLA?”. Romania for it’s culture. Croatia for it’s coastal towns. Slovenia for it’s green landscape, Greece because it’s Greece. You get the point. For Bosnia, the award it gets, it’s the kindest, most warm and welcoming people I have ever met. Just saying this alone makes me remember and puts a smile on my way. No matter what Bosnians have been through in the past 20 years, they have remained insanely humble and if they would, they’d probably invite you into their home. I met kind people in the hostels I stayed at but befriended most of them in the cars I got into. As I said before, few went way out of their way to take me where I needed to go. And even if they didn’t, I felt as If I knew the driver for years. Listening to traditional music, dancing and singing a long. Hell, as an American, FROM NEW YORK, i was treated even better. Oh by the way, the women are beautiful. If you are a woman reading this, sorry, I have no feedback for you on men. hahaha
New friend I made on a short ride from Jablanica to Jablanica lake
All in all, these are all reason I remember dearly of why Bosnia was amazing for me. With hospitable and kind people, good Coffee, delicious food before or after a nice walk across an Ottoman bridge, good music, and a beautiful backdrop, these are all reasons why you should go. Remember, the war, it’s in the past. And although it’s a hard memory for most to forget, it has made Bosnian’s stronger and even more welcoming for you to come. Enjoy 🙂
I wasn’t too impressed with Bran since it looked so small and overpriced, not to forget overcrowded with annoying hoards of kids. After walking around the castle on the road and a nice walk around the small village museum, I felt really confident about hitchhiking, especially since I had no clue where the bus picks you up. So I walked north towards Brasov at the edge of town, found a spot to be seen well, and after a month of fear, i killed that fear by putting my thumb out to drivers. Not even 15 seconds later, a Romanian man in a heavy duty pick up truck pulled aside to pick me up. I can remember so well, how happy he was to pick up a smiling tourist, who he later found out to be American which made him even happier.
