Categories
General Serbia

An American Visits Serbia

Rainy Day in Belgrade

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Unfortunately, I did not spend as much time in Serbia as I wanted to due to finances and time but I had an incredible time there with amazing people. There is so much to see and do in Serbia and what I love about the country is the fact that it’s almost a hidden treasure. I don’t mean that no one backpacks in Serbia. What i mean is so many people are drawn to overrated Western European destination that Serbia doesn’t get a chance. Even in the Balkans, people are drawn to the coastline of Montenegro and Slovenia but don’t consider going inland to Serbia.

Belgrade Fortress
Belgrade Fortress
Church of Saint Sava  
Church of Saint Sava  

For, I had the pleasure of enjoying couchsurfing in the big cities of Belgrade and Novi Sad. But aside from the large capital city and Vojvodina where travelers mostly do go in Serbia, there is so much to do and see in the south. There are beautiful mountains, canyons, fortresses, ossuaries, and the city of Vis. But aside from making notice of what I did and didn’t do, what I found intimidating prior to arriving in Serbia were the constant warning that Serbians hate / dislike Americans. I had no intentions whatsoever of changing my nationality to Canadian or another country that avoid sketchy topics. I simply tell people I’m American if they ask. I’m proud of where I come from. But at the same time, I don’t brag about it obnoxiously.

Former Yugoslav Army Headquarters
Former Yugoslav Army Headquarters
NATO Bombing Ruins in Belgrade
NATO Bombing Ruins in Belgrade

Funny story I heard in Romania, was this American guy, who was SO American, got robbed in Serbia, because he was SO American. Like being overly patriotic with a big mouth and being obnoxious. I wasn’t afraid of running into this issues because one, I’m not an obnoxious overly patriotic American. And two, I’m pretty smart when i comes to avoiding scams and being too honest about how I feel, especially when topics are sensitive in another country.

Arriving in Belgrade late April was by far one of the worst experiences. I’m not even making reference to the country. It was the coldest and wet spring day I have ever experienced probably in my life. It felt like mid January in Belgium, only more south haha. Anyways, what got my attention two hours into being in Serbia was befriending an older Serb and being asked, “Hey man, so why did you bomb my country,” He was obviously joking, but it’s a doorway to a conversation that could turn bad if I chose to say the wrong thing. I was obviously 8 years old and even if I was an adult, how could I even play a roll. We laughed it off, but it was still at least 4.5% awkward.

Couchsurfing with a young Serb in Belgrade also got me into some interesting conversations about the Nato bombings in 1999 and the intervention in Kosovo which liberated the Kosovo people from oppression and mass killings. As always, there are two sides to the story and it was certainly interesting hearing the Serbian side. On his television, I saw something that I will never forget. A “propoganda-like” reminder of the bombing of a radio building that killed several innocent people. It’s like continuing a cycle of hatred towards America and NATO.

Sava River pouring into the Danube
Sava River pouring into the Danube
Remains of a destroyed bridge in the Danube of Novi Sad
Remains of a destroyed bridge in the Danube of Novi Sad
City center of Novi Sad
City center of Novi Sad

Anywho, while I am not writing this post to persuade anyone to avoid Serbia. Serbia is incredible for what I have seen and done. And although there are a good number of people who have a deep hatred for America to a mild hatred, as long as you aren’t overly patriotic, single minded, and pushy into arguements, you will have an incredible time here. 🙂

Categories
General Romania

România: Impression and Experiences

I sit on this train leaving Romania realizing how much I actually really loved being in the country. I spent two weeks (minus one day in Moldova) traveling to numerous cities around the country and enjoyed every second of it. While I was there, I didn’t realize this. Like any other place I have traveled, I got used to and acquainted with the every day comforts of being where I was.

Romanian Food
Romanian Cuisine
Bucharest Parliament Building
Bucharest Parliament Building

I started in Bucharest coming via taxi from Bulgaria and started off pretty rough despite gloomy weather and having to walk in it for 10 hours due to the rules of my couchsurfing hosts. Despite the rough start, they did welcome me into their home with homemade Pálinka and local cuisine which came from some village.
That’s the thing about Romania that I love so much, is that the ratio of village life outdoes the city life. It’s an incredible appreciation coming from a country where everything is processed and GMO rules.

BlaBlaCar Romania
1st BlaBlaCar ride-Bucharest to Constanta
Constanta Abandoned Cazino
Constanta Abandoned Cazino

I first used BlaBlacar from Bucharest to Constanta, something I’ve been wanting to use for years and absolutely loved it. Surfed with some incredible hosts from Spain and France for a few days on the Black sea where I stopped time sitting on the beach and taking it all in. After Moldova, i made my way to Iasi and surfed with a British woman referred to me by my hosts in Bucharest. Here we went over to an old Romanian students house where she cooked and prepared some more local cuisine for us and had some wine.

Streetcar in Iasi
Streetcar in Iasi

My second Blablacar experience was from Iasi to Cluj passing through the Carpathian mountains and was an experience with a driver I will never forget. Not only did he stop some places for me to see and take photos, but it was such nice company that he invited me to have drinks and dinner at his place with him and his wife the next day. 5 palinca shots and 5 beers later, we drunkingly parted ways and still keep in tough. Stayed with a German guy who was willing to take me in despite his busy schedule. Saw the Salt mine in Turda and the city center while I was there.

Cluj-Napoca
Cluj-Napoca
Salina Turda GoPro
Salina Turda

Did a third Blablacar from Cluj to Sibiu and was yet another nice experience chatting with Romanians about life there and in the USA. I didn’t have too much luck in Sibiu, Sighisoara, and Brasov through couchsurfing. But I had an incredible kitchen party in a hostel in Sibiu and hung out with some people from there in Brasov. Had the ability to stretch out in Sighisoara in a cheap full apartment in the middle of town.

Sibiu city center
Sibiu City Center
Sibiu City Centere
Sibiu City Centere
Sighisoara city center
Sighisoara City Center

Sightseeing outside of Brasov, I had finally broken my fear of hitchhiking. Although it was only 15 Kilometers, those 20 minutes spend speaking with a Romanian about my travels was incredible and I will never forget that. Despite the unusual travel path I decided to do, I took a long 9 hour train across the country (two with an American girl so I wasn’t completely lonely) seeing some beautiful landscapes with one fortress right outside my window.

Brasov
Brasov
Hitchhiking in Romania
Hitchhiking in Romania
Rasnov town
Rasnov city center
Rasnov Fortress GoPro Romania
Rasnov Fortress Romania

In Timisoara, I enjoyed my last city with an incredible and hospitable host whom I’ve connected with so well that made me really fall hard for Romania. Romanian language is incredibly Romantic and pleasant to the ears. It’s more so for me because some of it sounds close to spanish yet some words have a touch of slavic tongue and trully unique in its own way. Romania has a lot to offer as far as things to do, see, and especially experience. It’s surely become one of my favorite countries and a place I can guarantee returning to. Noroc 🙂

Romania Train
Romania Train
Train Romania timisoara arad brasov
Train Brasov-Arad-Timisoara

Timisoara Umbrellas

Timisoara City Center Flower Festival
Flower Festival in Timisoara
Categories
Bulgaria General Romania

My Journey from Bulgaria to Romania

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On a map, you can see these two countries as north and south neighbors. On a map you can see links between the two countries. But apparently, it’s not like crossing from Canada to the U.S. or vise versa. And on a shittier note, the season is not high enough with more transportation. No one I guess visits their neighboring country unless it is hot.

With that being said, getting from Varna to Constanta seemed to be an impossible task in the start of April. No buses run at all on this route. The two cities are so close to each other but yea a single border makes life so difficult. Hitchhiking was my next option but after much research, that route also seems to be deserted. I have yet to hitchhike, and hitchhiking is my last option by choice, but I almost considered this. Realistically, this should not be my first experience. I can sense it would be a bad one.

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Alternative option aside from staying one more night in Varna, was to take the train back torwards Veliko Tarnovo and catch a connecting train to the town of Ruse, a city on the Danube across from Romania. On the way there, I realized that although there were more comforting options at this border, I still was left with very few options. While it was possible to cross it on foot, there was some construction on the bridge so this was not possible. Outside of the train station was a cabbie who just pulled up. I asked him the cost for the trip to the border and here he told me it was not possible to go by foot. Here I also forgot that you take a cab across the border due to the two nations being part of the EU.

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To cut travel costs, I negotiated 45 Lev to the train station on the Romanian side to catch the last and possibly the only train to Bucharest from Giurgiu. After 30 minutes across the bridge and getting my stamp, we arrived at the station only to realize it was nearly abandoned. No ticket agents, ATM, and only a few officials who seemed to work in the area. It seemed as this area was industrial leaving no hope to go anywhere. Thanks to my judgement, I asked the cabbie to stay a minute to scope out the place considering the environment we were at.

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Instead, I hired him for a continued journey onto Bucharest. The journey altogether cost me 45 Lev + 145 Leu, just about $50. If there was a train, the trip would have cost me 25 – 30 USD. But considering the circumstances plus having no desire to hitchhike (in the rain), I did what I had to do with good judgment. Beats being stranded. All because a road and border is somewhat deserted, what could have been a two hour journey along the coastline, turned into a long 10 hour trip with two slow trains and a cab ride (plus metro in Bucharest). Thankfully, my couchsurfing hosts awaited my arrival, welcomed me into their home, and had a delicious home cooked Romanian meal and couch for me. Oh, and I watched Star Wars Episode 7 again with them on a nice TV + surround sound. Hello România. 🙂

Categories
Bulgaria Europe General

An Overnight Trip to Belogradchik

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I can’t remember how I discovered this place. It was either Instagram or Pinterest while at the boring comforts of my former work desk back in the states. All I know, is that social media played a big part in how I knew about this place. Even a Latvia man in town who now lives in Bulgaria asked me, “How did you even hear about this place?” “I just said Instagram”, I am not even sure. However long ago it was I found this place, it remained saved on my Google Maps as a star for a long time.

It wasn’t until I arrived in Sofia where i started to try and figure out how to come here and I it seemed harder and harder to figure it out by the second. Especially in wanting to visit the Rila Lakes, Baba Vida in Vidin, and Belogradchik. But since I don’t have the freedom of a having a car and since train travel pretty much sucks here in Bulgaria, I eventually had to do a process of elimination and chose which one or ones will I go to. Rila requires a car and or shuttle to and from. The monastery looks amazing but the 7 lakes is what I wanted to see which not only requires a lot of hiking, but it’s still very very cold up there (add snow).

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I wanted to include visiting Vidin along with Belogradchik but once again, travel between Sofia, Vidin, and Belo made a day trip seemingly impossible. Like going from Sofia to Belo then to Vidin and back had conflicting public transport times, and I still have a lot to do within to even consider hitchhiking with all of my valuables. The biggest one my HD with all my footage. With Vidin having only one place to see, Baba Vida fortress, I decided Belogradchik may be worth the attempt.

The last night at my couchsurfers place, I spent two hours trying to figure this out and finally came up with a plan. Once a day, the Montana bus goes from Sofia to Belo and the same coming back next day. Saturday depart at 4:30, arrival at 8pm. Sunday leave Belo at 3 and arrive in Sofia at 7. Sounds perfect to explore the Fortress and rocks in the morning. The trip one way each costs 16 Lev, roundtrip in USD $18. I booked a cheap place via Booking.com for 35 lev, about $20 USD, not bad.

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I arrived in time to see the rocks right at the end of sunset but with no time to venture out. So a night in relaxing and figuring out the next few days did some justice. Bright and somewhat early next morning, even as lazy as I felt, I venture across town from Bedrock Guesthouse and made my way into the Fortress, 6 Lev ($3 and change). I gotta say, this trip and the money spend was incredibly worth it. The place is a combination of Roman + Ottoman military history, with the Flinstones, Southern Utah and a touch of another planet. It’s incredible!! Without a doubt there are places around the world that are jaw dropping but Belogradchik is a gem on it’s own. Plus there is nothing like traveling to a place as the only American.

In conclusion, after taking about 600 amazing pictures on my Iphone and GoPro combined, I have got to say that a trip to Belogradchik is a must. Whether you’ve got it made in a car, do an overnighter like I did, or hitchhike your way here, I promise you, you will not regret it. 🙂

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Categories
Europe General Turkey Voyage Journal

Backpacking the Balkans: Prologue

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Words can’t even begin to describe how excited I am to finally backpack in the Balkan region of Europe. It’s not only far cheaper than “common” European places, but in my opinion, it seems far more cultural and exotic. For many years I’ve been anticipating this journey and it is finally happening. I’ve spent the past month backpacking across some of Western Europe and it’s been incredible (Holland, Belgium, Luxembourg and a little of Germany). But the places I am going to venture to are going to be 10 times more incredible.

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I am currently on a Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt, Germany looking back at how and why I even grew such a strong desire to go here. I think one day back in 2012 or 2013 I was at my little work desk doing my usual travel via Google maps and street views. I may have been looking at the eastern coastline of Italy. But to the east I saw a large unusual set of islands in the Adriatic sea that drew my curiosity. This is the country of Croatia. I dropped the street view pin on most of the islands and coast and eventually inland and was completely blown away. Although I fooled myself at first in beleiving I could escape Italian tourism to a “non touristy” destination like Croatia, I was wrong.

Croatia has it’s share of tourism, especially in the city of Dubrovnik, but it’s certainly not Rome or Milan. For many years after this, I studied the Balkan nations more and more and my curiosity drew me to love everything about this region. From the history prior to the Yugoslavia wars to it’s present day division and the socialist days of Romania and Bulgaria to it’s brighter days today. And of course I can’t forget my lifelonge dream country of Greece. At some point, I found myself dreaming of doing a several month, counterclockwise backpacking journey through the whole region, from Istanbul up to Belgrade, over to Ljubljana down Croatia and eventually to Greece. This would be one hell of an adventure that in my eyes whole stand out from typical European adventures.

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So here I am on this flight to Istanbul, reality setting in that this freaking adventure is REALLY REALLY happening. I am the happiest person in the world right now and can’t wait to dive into so many amazing cultures. In this small region, I know I will learn many new words in new languages, meet so many incredible people, have an even broader taste in music, and have memories of a damn lifetime. See you soon Istanbul.

Ahh I’m the happiest man in the world right now :)))

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