The Czech Republic is an awesome country. From the history, architecture, food, culture, and of course, the beer. But alike every other popular travel destination, much of the country is in a travel shadow. Blame Prague for that. It’s like tourism in the New York Upstate vs. New York City. A foreigner probably doesn’t know enough about New York State but should know that the Upstate is amazing also.
Street in Brno.
Town center.
Signs representing 25 years since the Velvet Revolution.
Brno skyline.
The same also applies for the Czech Republic, a country most whom aren’t geographically inclined still think it’s Czechoslovakia (now obviously the Czech Republic and Slovakia.) Or better yet, only know this country for the capital city of Prague. But there so much more to this country than the touristy city of Prague, like it’s second largest city, Brno, a city south east of Prague in the region of old Moravia. I didn’t spend too much time here, but a one day experience was enough for me to enjoy much of the cities highlights.
Špilberk Castle.
View of Brno from Špilberk Castle.
Although it is considered a ‘large’ city, alike Bratislava, I found the city was extremely easy to navigate and see in a short period of time. Hence why I stayed for one night. For my single day/night experience here in the middle of November, it was pretty miserable, wet, cloudy, and cold. But in all honesty, the crappy climate gave the city an even more pure essence. The cobble stoned streets glistened from the street lamps, cars, trams and buildings above them. It was beautiful watching people innocently go about the day hidden under their umbrellas. Gazing up at the tops of the large cathedrals within the city center.
Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
Lanterns lit for the Velvet Revolution’s 25th anniversary.
Inside Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
But what added to the allure of the city was the parade of children with custom made candle lit lanterns walking in the street. Little did I know, I was in Brno during a historic holiday, The 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, a mass movement that granted Czechoslovakia freedom and independence from socialism and free from the hands of the Soviets. After a nice prayer at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, I walked with this crowd to a small square where a fire lady spun fire and spark poi. It was an amazing surprise to walk into and a beautiful experience in a beautiful city.
It is a known fact that when anyone mentioned the Czech Republic, most would automatically think Prague. I’m am also guilty of this in the past. It’s like foreigners who want to see the U.S. but don’t know enough besides Texas, California, and New York. But like any other country, there is more to the Czech Republic than the beautiful cathedrals and bridges of Prague. Like the other larger less popular cities of Olomouc and Brno. But fortunate for me, I not only learned about these other cities but a region within the country that is in the travel shadow to the world. The region of South Moravia, is known to be a region where Czech dialect apparently is pure and apparently, correct, and a place where you will most likely find yourself the only foreigner in a land of only Czech natives and locals.
This is something I loved about this place. After reading an article from the New York Times about a place far outside of the tourism circuit, I couldn’t pass such an authentic Czech experience. Gladly, the place is not as difficult to get to as one would assume or I assumed in the first place. Just an extra regional train ride from larger train route is all, stopping at Breslav. The train is actually two trains cars being towed by a small engine car. On my return trip to Breclav, the train car itself was in fact the same exact one. My perspective is, if the locals can travel to Mikulov, Valtice or any other small town period, a traveler can as well.
Pit stop at Breclav from Bratislava. Here I took a small regional train.
Visiting this place in November is perfect for tranquility, peace and quiet, something I was actually looking forward to considering doing plenty of Couchsurfing and some sacrificed sleep in hostels. Not forgetting the fact that there really isn’t a market for hosteling nor were there any Couchsurfers with an open couch at the time. It is low season and even though you might fight a few foreigners during the summer, chances are, I was the only foreigner in a town of nothing but Czech folks. It felt good, it felt authentic, and couldn’t have asked for a better experience. I love a good night on the town out with a good crowd or even if I am solo with the ambience of city life around me. But not here, the cobble stone streets were empty with the sound of my own footsteps and in the distance, a couple holding hands, it was perfect. This town is a Czech travel destination practically untouched to the tourism world. A festival took place in the town center, with food, amazing tasting wine, home made souvenirs all for an extremely dirt cheap price. I had a little “burrito” like dish with sausage inside for 2 Euros. Another locally made Moravian sausage link for another 2 Euros, STEAL!
Arriving in Mikulov.
Walking into town.
Street in Mikulov.
Zamek Mikulov
Big ass barrel underground.
Clock tower.
Mikulov town center.
Mini lunch for two bucks.
Starting up the hill to overlook the town.
Beautiful view of Mikulov.
View of the Czech Austrian border.
Leaving Mikulov and en route to Brno, I made a stopover in the small town of Valtice, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I felt the same kind of authenticity I felt in Mikulov, no tourists, no tourist traps, etc. There were barely even any Czech natives. A nice stroll into town from the train station led me to Zámek Valtice/ Valtice Castle, a massively impressive Baroque style palace right in the center of town. Adjacent to it, is a small square where at the time was completely empty, good enough for a cup of tea and a peaceful afternoon before heading off to Brno.
Jump up for joy, I promise no pain was involved.
Another overlook of Mikulov.
The quiet streets of Mikulov at night.
Walking the streets of Valtice bright and early in the morning.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Inside the Valtice Castle.
Valtice Castle.
Church in Valtice.
Altogether, despite the time of year, the low crowds and fog, a Sunday before a national holiday, and being in the shadow of the travel world, this place was by far the most amazing czech experience in my time in the Czech Republic, especially for my first stop in the country. I would suggest to others, but to the very few who would travel there and not vacation. I mean we wouldn’t want to diminish its authenticity would we? 🙂
Here I am, sort of lost in Blah blah, Slovakia in a strong desperate but understanding attempt to see a castle, Beckov Castle, way off the beaten path. Despite the courage, I almost expect this kind of thing to happen. It is part of the adventure and sacrifice that comes with the wanderlust and strong desire for travel, especially working so hard back home to be where I am. Although keeping in mind safety and being wise, I never forget that these mishaps are what make travel such a learning experience as well. It’s one of those “yea that happened!” or “I can’t believe that happened!” So even though I am killing time yet keeping note of this experience, cheers to castle that I may or may not see, cheers to this trip, cheers to travel and cheers to getting lost. 🙂
(One hour later)
…In conclusion and to wrap up the topic with some reality, I did not see the castle I wanted to see. I found it’s worth of seeing was diminished after missing two trains, getting on the wrong one, getting stuck in the middle of nowhere, and finally meeting a sketchy woman. First, who seemed very helpful informing me that there was no bus service where I needed to go eventually turned into helping me far more than I even wanted to help myself. She began to ask me how long I was in town and in Slovakia for and if I was alone. Next trying to get me to stay in the local hotel not to far from the station. And last but not least, calling one of her “sons” to start the car and pick us up to take us to the castle. After I declined and started my way back to the station she began to insist even more. At that point, I knew what i had to do. I could have decided on a taxi but this woman’s persistence honestly ruined it for me. I am alone, I am not familiar of where I am, time, and the options I had to get to this castle now gone, seeing the castle was a no go. After I confirmed this in my head, I gave a final no to the woman and she then turned away and vanished. Fortunately I made friends with some locals on the train back to Bratislava, chatting away, exchanging stories, and singing Frank Sinatra – New York New York, in Slovak. Interesting but great day! Getting lost ain’t always a bad thing. 🙂
Slovakia, the divorcee of the Czech Republic , is a very interesting and fun budget travel friendly country. There are many options to choose from when visiting Slovakia. Like its capital, Bratislava, which is in close proximity to Vienna, which is a popular destination throughout Europe. Or one of its many beautiful castles throughout the countryside, the Tatra Mountain range for hiking and the outdoors, and its second largest city, Košice, in the eastern part of the country. Slovakia is no third world country nor a western European country either, which makes travel here allow your dollars to stretch pretty far. The further east you go, the cheaper the travel is. But for those on the common travel circuit passing through can say that even Bratislava is budget travel friendly.
After arriving in Bratislava, I had a very accurate idea of where to go to find my hostel and Because I am inclined with direction and maps, this was probably far easier for me than the average person. But Bratislava is no doubt a very easy city to navigate considering is size and its landmarks allowing you to see much of the highlights in probably a few hours to a whole day. This being said, whether you are here for a few hours or a few days, public transport passes are not too bad. Me being there for 2 days pushed me to purchase a 48-hour pass for 10 Euros. Using the bus service to and from the main terminal to the city center, across the Danube for the shopping center and bridge observation deck, and to Devin Castle and back was worth the 10 Euros.
Random appealing looking street.
Atop Slavin Hill.
Slavin Memorial commemorating fallen soldiers in WW2.
Most SNP, Petrzalka, and the Danube River
Random sidestreet.
Bratislava Castle from Michaels Gate.
Michael’s Gate.
View of Bratislava from the UFO observation deck on Most SNP bridge.
View of Petrzalka from the Most SNP bridge.
Aside from public transport, walking around the city is very easy to accomplish. After looking at a map and with a good sense of direction, I saw all I wanted to see and did all I wanted to do within the city limits in about 6 to 7 hours. I started from my hostel , Downtown Backpackers (US$20 for two nights), up to the Slavin memorial hiking up to the top of the hill overlooking the city. From there I took a short bus down the hill to the castle overlooking the Danube. Next, walking across the highway into and out of the old town square. With about an hour to rest my feet and legs, I then hopped on the 93 across the Danube into Petrzalka to make my way up to the UFO on the Most SNP bridge for a spectacular night view of the city and a cold Slovak brew. From here I walked across the bridge and walked in the city center once again for a nice up close glimpse of the old town at night. That night I ventured across town into an underground nightclub for a Drum and Bass venue at SubClub, a bomb shelter turned into a nightclub. The cost to get in for a night without a live DJ performing was 4 Euros one night but for another with live DJ’s it was at 10. Average cost of brews here were about 1.20 Euros.
Having a Slovak brew overlooking Bratislava from Most SNP’s UFO restaurant.
Strolling along the Most SNP bridge on the Danube River.
One of many places of graffiti throughout the city.
Tunnel at SubClub, a former bomb shelter turned nightclub.
Drum and Bass at Subclub, an old bomb shelter turned nightclub.
Around the city, I never found myself wine and dining in the common tourist areas in order to stretch my money out. Eating out at vendors along the way I found myself spending an average of 4 Euros per meal throughout my time there not to forget a stop at a market for a cold cut sandwiches and fruits which cost about the same. Outside of the city is Devin castle, sitting right on the Danube River. It’s easy to take a tour but also possible to take public transport. With a 48 hour pass, this costs nothing but attention to bus arrival and departure times. I was only limited to an hour self guided tour around the castle, perfect enough time for a solo traveler. Arriving back at my hostel, I dined at the downstairs restaurant for my only “wine and dine” meal costing me about 8 Euros for a dinner plate and a large beer. Say what?! 🙂
In conclusion, Slovakia is still transitioning it’s political status with the European Union, which is joined recently in 2004. And adapting the Euro as it’s currency in 2009, I can see why it is so cheap to travel. Unfortunately, according to a local I chatted with, much of the country, especially the more east you go, lives under poverty and is very underpaid in contrast to it’s western neighbors. Therefor leaving room for budget travelers to, budget travel. Slovakia is a fun country and good to stretch your dollars/euros pretty far. I hope to return someday to see the Tatras and the eastern parts of the country. I shall return. Great GoPro sunset shot overlooking the Danube from the Bratislava Castle.
Coming straight from Budapest was an interesting experience. Being in this region of Europe during November doesn’t leave much surprise when the weather forecast looks foggy. It was a bit evident in the difference in landscape and infrastructure between the two countries. The farming fields seem much more put together and organized. The facades of walls were still intact opposed to Austria’s southeastern neighbor. Maybe it reflects the continuous feel of its socialist days, or maybe its me. But was struck me as odd but realistic was that this fog and overcast dissapeared after crossing into Austria. Considering how much of a geography nerd I am, I knew exactly when we crossed the border.
My CouchSurfing host and I enjoying an Austrian brew.
Reaching Vienna wasn’t at first glance an “OO” and “AA” but a head scratch and a where the hell do I go. Eventually, I found the correct Metro train and found my way to my CouchSurfing hosts place in Floridsdorf. Fortunately for me, with the line I took, some parts of this journey opens up to life above the ground enough to see the tops of the beautiful buildings above. One after another, a new personality of architecture flew by. It seems like nothing but it was a tease to the cities reputation. I felt a very small taste of what the hype was all about regarding this city’s beauty, like an intro to a brilliant film.
Later, after I got settled in with my host I reached an amusement part opened year round, Prater. A romantic scene in a Bond film, The Living Daylights, took place in this very park. Considering myself as a lifelong die hard Bond fan, how could I pass off a visit to this very park. Although many of the rides are closed, the ferris wheel is where I truly wanted to go and is where this scene took place. In a box car with a family, couple and their third wheel wasn’t what I call romantic, especially if my loved one is back in the states. But this is what gave me my first view of the whole city in a 360 panoramic view and drew me to want more of the city.
Ferris Wheel at Prater Amusement Park. (open year round)View of the city skyline from Prater.Graffiti at the Danube CanalGraffiti at the Danube Canal.St. Stephens CathedralGraben Pedestrian Street. The most beautiful place in Vienna, in my opinion.I don’t know, just looked cool!
So I headed straight for the city center with no fixed plans and almost no sense of direction. And what I found was a canal cutting through the old and the new. Building lights bright enough to reflect off of the water and reveal the street art (graffiti) that lies below the street level. This graffiti art was not defacing the city’s image, but it was actually fantastic art work that really blew my mind. A few blocks down, you can smell the mix between cooking Frankfurters to the occasional pastry all while walking past the large St. Stephens church and peeking through the smaller streets continuing to admire the endless designs of beautiful architecture lining the streets. But what really put me in amazement, was my walk down Graben, a street only for pedestrians. With winter lights hanging above, lights bringing glow to even more gorgeous buildings, an opera singer, and an accordion player with a touch of the hourly church bells, this moment right here, left me in amazement and at awe.
Kreuzenstein Castle outside Vienna city limits.Jump of joy at the infamous Belvedere Palace.GoPro selfie at the Schonbrunn Palace.
But this wasn’t the actual point that left me in love with the city. After making a trip to the Kreuzenstein Castle outside of the city, visiting the beautiful Belvedere Palace and a quick stop at Schonbrunn Palace, I made a stopover on the Danube island during the evening, where you will not only find the Austria Center Vienna and a completly seperate city center, but the Donauturm, an 800ish foot high observation tower in the middle of the island, practically on the Danube River. This tower offers 360 panoramic views of both the city and beyond. After my views on the lower level where the elevator lets you out, I set off to explore the rest of the tower which had two extra stories, the next an extra deck with a Deli, and the last, a somewhat classy restaurant. Fortunate for me, I found the perfect opportunity to drink a well deserved brew. Little did I realize, the whole floor slowly revolves around the tower, something in my mind I’d always dreamed of experiencing. This was a pleasant surprise!
Evening stroll at Donau Park.Looking south from the Donauturm.
While enjoying a full turn around the city, I noticed something. I noticed that the restaurant was playing American classic rock and alternative rock, most of these favorites of my girlfriend. It was this moment that I realized something. How badly I wished to be with her at that moment. It was like a collision of two worlds all in one in a land so far away. The state of being abroad yet a piece of her right there with me. Listening to “Oasis- Wonderwall” while watching the little subway trains cross the Danube river, watching life continue on below. It was as if a part of her made her way through the airwaves of that restaurant and filled that empty seat across my table. It was as if she too was watching the horizon of city lights, cars, trains, church spires, and hills beyond with me. It was this very moment that brought tears to my eyes. I enjoy solo travel, but I really, truly wished that she was there with me, enjoying all of these amazing endless moments I continue to have.
The upper-level restaurant, wishing my girlfriend was at the other end of the table.Romeo and Julia play at the opera house.Vienna Metro.
With a few hours to kill, I ended my full day with a quick stop at the Opera for some Romeo and Juliet, then grabbed some brews to enjoy with my host. Alike what I’ve heard from other solo travelers in the past, “solo travel is nice for many reasons, but it does get lonely at times”. But when you do have a significant other back at home while traveling, that pain can be much stronger that even the smallest reminder can count. So in the end, my original ‘itinerary’ didn’t include Vienna. Due to it’s close proximity to my desired path, I made a perfect choice to come here. I can personally say I fell in love with the natural romanticism of the city. From the romantic architecture along the streets, to the top of the Wiener Riesenrad, to it’s enormous palaces and castles, to the couple holding each other on the steps of the Austria Center Vienna. Even though I explored it on my own, the strong essence of city still managed to bring love across the Atlantic, across half of Europe and right with me in spirit. Vienna is a city of love.
Dinner mmm.
