Prague is a magnificent city from it’s bright days of Summer to its low clouds and days of fog. Regardless, the city allure and beauty lasts year round in all climates. From the hills to the arch bridges over the Vltava River. For me, my stay didn’t get off to the most positive start. Traveling around Central Europe during mid-November, you shouldn’t be surprised by not seeing any sun, which I didn’t. But after arriving at Prague’s main train station from Kutna Hora, I was greeted by sad, depressing weather with low clouds and hours of light rain. In addition, my $5 gas station umbrella started to give out at the wind blows walking through the city.
Prague City CenterCharles Bridge
Now I am not one to complain, especially while traveling, but I felt so miserable. I mean, it is the very two combined weather climates that I hate the most. In addition, Prague is not the easiest city to navigate for first timers. While Budapest has a river dividing the city creating a landmark for direction, Prague’s river creates the shape of a crescent, making point A to point B much longer than anticipated. Forget sense of direction! The city center is obviously OLD with a medieval city grid, but attempting to assume the river is east after walking two blocks doesn’t work so well like in Budapest. Not only did I have an issue finding my AirBnb apartment, but I also spent numerous nights walking in the wrong direction. Walking from the city square, for example to the Charles Bridge through side streets actually made me walk a mile or two south.
Žižkov Hill. My favorite walk in Prague.
Sweet GoPro shot of the Prague City center
While I couldn’t help the frustration in the beginning, I later realized that this is part of my own travel experience in Prague. I didn’t want to follow the crowd. Getting lost in Prague was a slightly frustrating but very memorable. Taking a turn into one of the city’s less traveled alleys and streets is a beautiful treat within itself. Nothing beats walking down a cobble stoned alley in Prague, alone, with amber colored lamps shining against the sidewalks and buildings. Even the graffiti amazed me.
St. Vitus Cathedral
The downside to Prague at any given time throughout the year is it’s crowd. It’s Prague, its supposedly the 5th popular tourist city of Europe, who wouldn’t want to come here. Well everyone does, which is why you see hoards and hoards of people swarming the castle, city center, Charles Bridge, and main alleys. Despite the crowds, not only are these places still enjoyable but there are plenty of off the beaten path spots around the city to enjoy as well as taking in great city views. My personal favorite, the view of Prague from Hanavský pavilion where you can see the infamous cascade of bridges below and beyond. Or my favorite restaurant, Pivovar U Tří Růží, also a brewery. And my favorite walk through Žižkov hill with no tourists or tourist traps.
Dancing HousePivovar U Tří Růží brewery and restaurantDrum and Bass at Roxy NightclubKarstejn Castle
I loved Prague! So much history going back to the Medieval years, to World War 2, to the very long years of socialism. Outside of the city, the Sedlec Ossuary bone church in Kutna Hora and Karlstejn Castle are easy to reach. Prague is no Eastern Europe budget friendly city but it is not western European either. It’s affordable with many cost efficient places around the city, if you know where to look. I czeched out only a few night clubs but even these experiences were enough to satisfy my party side. The Czech cuisine is fantastic, from its duck dishes to the delishious Trdelnik , something I ate about 5 times in one day. Lastly and most importantly, Czech beer is always a must try and is absolutely good. So whether you stroll the alleys solo or stroll the Charles Bridge with a loved one, I can certainly now see why Prague is so popular for all kinds of people. But if you go, plan on getting lost, you won’t regret it. 🙂
Traveling through the heart of the Czech Republic.
Walking in town.
Coming from the eastern side of the Czech Republic traveling east to the capital of Prague, I could not pass up a visit to the bone church in Kutná Hora. Researching how to get there proved to me that train travel is much more flexible being there than the internet, especially in Europe. Waking up early in the city of Brno, I had my hostel receptionist research train travel to Kutna Hora. Fortunately for me, there was a direct train from Brno to Kutná Hora in an hour. So I happily checked out, hopped on a train heading to Prague (I had an empty car 90% of the way), and boom, in an hour and change, I was in the small town of Kutná Hora. I could have easily taken a bus or taxi from the station, but considering budget travel and a short walk, I headed straight to the bone church on foot. Upon arrival, there were a few tour groups ready to enter.
The chuch exterior.
Center of the church. Bone chandelier.
In order to avoid having to stand within or around an annoying tour guide, I quickly entered the seemingly innocent church. After paying 90 Crowns (About $4 and change US) at the front counter, you are greeted with bones everywhere, from above and around the desk to the ceiling and walls. Down about 10 steps is the infamous chandelier of bones that will leave you with a “Holy Shit” or a “Woah” or “Wow”. It is absolutely a mind blowing sight to see such an assembly of human bones by someone from many years ago. One each I guess you could say, corner of the interior are pyramids of human skulls. On one corner is a shield representing the Coat of Arms of the Schwarzenberg. The rest of Kutna Hora is a pretty cool town to see. Unfortunately I only got to see the church and ate lunch at at restaurant down the street, but a visit here is a must if you have time to kill in the Czech Republic.
The Czech Republic is an awesome country. From the history, architecture, food, culture, and of course, the beer. But alike every other popular travel destination, much of the country is in a travel shadow. Blame Prague for that. It’s like tourism in the New York Upstate vs. New York City. A foreigner probably doesn’t know enough about New York State but should know that the Upstate is amazing also.
Street in Brno.
Town center.
Signs representing 25 years since the Velvet Revolution.
Brno skyline.
The same also applies for the Czech Republic, a country most whom aren’t geographically inclined still think it’s Czechoslovakia (now obviously the Czech Republic and Slovakia.) Or better yet, only know this country for the capital city of Prague. But there so much more to this country than the touristy city of Prague, like it’s second largest city, Brno, a city south east of Prague in the region of old Moravia. I didn’t spend too much time here, but a one day experience was enough for me to enjoy much of the cities highlights.
Špilberk Castle.
View of Brno from Špilberk Castle.
Although it is considered a ‘large’ city, alike Bratislava, I found the city was extremely easy to navigate and see in a short period of time. Hence why I stayed for one night. For my single day/night experience here in the middle of November, it was pretty miserable, wet, cloudy, and cold. But in all honesty, the crappy climate gave the city an even more pure essence. The cobble stoned streets glistened from the street lamps, cars, trams and buildings above them. It was beautiful watching people innocently go about the day hidden under their umbrellas. Gazing up at the tops of the large cathedrals within the city center.
Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
Lanterns lit for the Velvet Revolution’s 25th anniversary.
Inside Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
But what added to the allure of the city was the parade of children with custom made candle lit lanterns walking in the street. Little did I know, I was in Brno during a historic holiday, The 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, a mass movement that granted Czechoslovakia freedom and independence from socialism and free from the hands of the Soviets. After a nice prayer at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, I walked with this crowd to a small square where a fire lady spun fire and spark poi. It was an amazing surprise to walk into and a beautiful experience in a beautiful city.
It is a known fact that when anyone mentioned the Czech Republic, most would automatically think Prague. I’m am also guilty of this in the past. It’s like foreigners who want to see the U.S. but don’t know enough besides Texas, California, and New York. But like any other country, there is more to the Czech Republic than the beautiful cathedrals and bridges of Prague. Like the other larger less popular cities of Olomouc and Brno. But fortunate for me, I not only learned about these other cities but a region within the country that is in the travel shadow to the world. The region of South Moravia, is known to be a region where Czech dialect apparently is pure and apparently, correct, and a place where you will most likely find yourself the only foreigner in a land of only Czech natives and locals.
This is something I loved about this place. After reading an article from the New York Times about a place far outside of the tourism circuit, I couldn’t pass such an authentic Czech experience. Gladly, the place is not as difficult to get to as one would assume or I assumed in the first place. Just an extra regional train ride from larger train route is all, stopping at Breslav. The train is actually two trains cars being towed by a small engine car. On my return trip to Breclav, the train car itself was in fact the same exact one. My perspective is, if the locals can travel to Mikulov, Valtice or any other small town period, a traveler can as well.
Pit stop at Breclav from Bratislava. Here I took a small regional train.
Visiting this place in November is perfect for tranquility, peace and quiet, something I was actually looking forward to considering doing plenty of Couchsurfing and some sacrificed sleep in hostels. Not forgetting the fact that there really isn’t a market for hosteling nor were there any Couchsurfers with an open couch at the time. It is low season and even though you might fight a few foreigners during the summer, chances are, I was the only foreigner in a town of nothing but Czech folks. It felt good, it felt authentic, and couldn’t have asked for a better experience. I love a good night on the town out with a good crowd or even if I am solo with the ambience of city life around me. But not here, the cobble stone streets were empty with the sound of my own footsteps and in the distance, a couple holding hands, it was perfect. This town is a Czech travel destination practically untouched to the tourism world. A festival took place in the town center, with food, amazing tasting wine, home made souvenirs all for an extremely dirt cheap price. I had a little “burrito” like dish with sausage inside for 2 Euros. Another locally made Moravian sausage link for another 2 Euros, STEAL!
Arriving in Mikulov.
Walking into town.
Street in Mikulov.
Zamek Mikulov
Big ass barrel underground.
Clock tower.
Mikulov town center.
Mini lunch for two bucks.
Starting up the hill to overlook the town.
Beautiful view of Mikulov.
View of the Czech Austrian border.
Leaving Mikulov and en route to Brno, I made a stopover in the small town of Valtice, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I felt the same kind of authenticity I felt in Mikulov, no tourists, no tourist traps, etc. There were barely even any Czech natives. A nice stroll into town from the train station led me to Zámek Valtice/ Valtice Castle, a massively impressive Baroque style palace right in the center of town. Adjacent to it, is a small square where at the time was completely empty, good enough for a cup of tea and a peaceful afternoon before heading off to Brno.
Jump up for joy, I promise no pain was involved.
Another overlook of Mikulov.
The quiet streets of Mikulov at night.
Walking the streets of Valtice bright and early in the morning.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Inside the Valtice Castle.
Valtice Castle.
Church in Valtice.
Altogether, despite the time of year, the low crowds and fog, a Sunday before a national holiday, and being in the shadow of the travel world, this place was by far the most amazing czech experience in my time in the Czech Republic, especially for my first stop in the country. I would suggest to others, but to the very few who would travel there and not vacation. I mean we wouldn’t want to diminish its authenticity would we? 🙂
Someone recently told me that I get the most out of my travels. It’s true and agree 100%! I want to say “I don’t know what it is”, but I do. As I expand my travels out further and further, as like every other traveler, something happens within. You grow, you change for the better, your perspective on life improves, and honestly, you are practically immune to negativity. It would be ethnically frowned upon, at least in my eyes, to try single myself out from the crowd. I am not trying to, but I really do get the most out of my trips. I know, meet, have met, and seen people via web who are travelers alike with the same wanderlust. But I feel deep within, my passion is on a completely different level than your average wanderlust.
View of Budapest from Gallert Hill
Infamous Budapest Chain Bridge
Couchsurfing is a great way to be a part of your destination with a local.
Couchsurfing in Budapest
Couchsurfing in Vienna
It has been only three days since my return from my two week journey into Central Europe, and I can’t begin to explain briefly how this trip has changed me. I usually wake up from dreams about places I want to go and see. But this morning I had a very vivid dream about where I just came from. I’ve been to a handful of places that I can say I fell in love with and while I did love all of these places visited on this journey, I can’t say “falling in love” happened. It wasn’t solely about the places I’ve seen. It was a different kind of admiration. On this voyage, I was tested beyond just getting to my destinations. For example, in the past I keenly used my sense of sight. This time I manage to use alI of them like a working machine. My appreciation for people in general has improved so much. I realized that although there are inconsiderate and heartless assholes out there, for the most part, people around the world are general friendly and are willing to help you. Without phone service and solely relying on wifi and sense of direction left me with the only possible means of communication: pointing, showing names, pronunciation attempts, hand and face gestures, and most importantly, smiles. No matter how wide the language barrier is, human interaction is always possible. Considering the few mishaps I had, I still continued on and understood these mishaps as part of my voyage, intelligently.
Hanging out in beautiful ViennaBelvedere Palace in Vienna, AustriaSunset over Bratislava, SlovakiaHrad Devin/Devin CastleLost somewhere in SlovakiaSubclub: Soviet bomb shelter turned nightclub
I chose what many consider Eastern Europe because of the former Iron Curtain that separated a free Western Europe from a Socialist Eastern Europe. With much of Europe united, much of it now without physical border checkpoints, I traveled in Central Europe. This particular region, “just because it is not your usual first time Europe travel destination: Rome, London, Paris, Etc.” And what made me beyond happy, is that I made locals so proud that I chose their beloved country. I wanted something different, something new, and although not low density travel destinations, for a first time, it was more off the beaten path, the experience I wanted for myself. I tell myself two weeks is not enough time to travel, I mean really travel. But I guess it beats an extended weekend or a week. Personally, I would love to see Americans travel for a month to a month and a half, but two weeks does suffice, I guess.
Off the beaten path in Mikulov, South Moravia, Czech RepublicOff the beaten path in Valtice, South Moravia, Czech RepublicRainy day in Brno, Czech Republic, the second largest city in the country.
But in two weeks, I really did make the most out of my travels. After all, I lost my weekend job, got questioned with my primary job, and even got some frowns from family and loved ones. But that was actually only a fraction of why I made the most out of this. I never look to the past, BUT looking back is always a motivator to move forward strongly. I’ve suffered many years since birth with fighting parents, custody battles, struggling with depression in the later years, finally struggling to get on my feet in and out of unemployment, and the everyday financial obstacles that could deter ones desire to travel period. Who could blame me for having such a strong and powerful spirit in doing the one thing I love, traveling. So in the end, I’ve taken planes, trains, buses, and trams. I’ve hitchhiked, surfed couches, stayed in hostels, hotels, and apartments. Seen 5 countries, 6 cities, 4 towns, with 5 different languages. I’ve found myself exploring amazing places and even found myself completely lost. I’ve succeeded in my travels but also learned from mistakes. Sacrificed familiarities, time, and patience to get off the beaten path. Ate local food and drank local brews, and had amazing nightlife experiences, trying absinthe along the way. Set foot on history that served a purpose hundreds of years ago. Met many new faces and said my goodbyes with hopes for a new day to meet again maybe in a new place.
View of Brno from the Špilberk CastleThe creepy Sedlec Ossuary, a church with human bones as it’s interior décor.Spontaneous day trip to Dresden, Germany…Just because…Dresden, GermanyGerman Bier and grub.
It wasn’t just traveling to these places that impressed me for future travel, I tested my abilities on my own, traveling on a budget while still enjoying myself, diving into the various cultures I’ve experienced, and best of all, returning a better person than when I arrived. Even though I had to get used to bringing in a book bag for groceries, smaller and healthier food portions and spent about $10 US on public bathrooms, I also realized that even Europe has it’s own cultural differences. Traveling does good for everyone, after all travel is the one thing you buy that makes you richer. It is a learning experience that changes you for the better, helps you grow, and helps contribute to unite a divided world. Anyone can see photos and watch videos, but the state of being and leaping into other cultures and norms is what makes it a beautiful privilege beyond imagination. These past two weeks wasn’t just for me, but my sharing of pictures, and videos of my experiences I hope are enough to prove that there is more out there in the world to do, see and experience with hopes for you to work hard and do it as well.
Strolling along the Charles Bridge in Prague.Prague Old Town CenterBest view of Prague and her bridges.Karlštejn Castle, outside of Prague.
Of course I wanted to continue on from Prague. Maybe make my way to Berlin and continue onto Scandinavia. Or down to Munich and end up in southern Italy. Or make my way down to a place that I really want to go, and possibly my next trip, down to Bosnia, Croatia, Serbia, and the former Yugoslavia. But instead, and unlike other voyages, I was ready to return. I wasn’t depressed to return to “dreaded work”. Because I understand that this is what is funding my voyages in the first place. I wasn’t unhappy to return to the familiar, because I remind myself of those loved ones who support me to do what I love. I was ready to return, because after I share my stories with my loved ones and the minute I punch that clock at work, I have already begun the process on my next learning experience. As for one key quote I will never forget that my host in Budapest preached to me before I left his place, “You will leave something behind here from your three day stay”. I thought he was being literal but I was wrong. “You will leave three days of your life here”. So cheers to leaving two great weeks of my life in Central Europe. 🙂
