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Europe General The Netherlands

6 Incredible days in The Netherlands

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The Netherlands wasn’t my intended first country on this gap year. Western Europe was actually completely out of the question. But since my girlfriend and I originally had plans to go anyway, it made more sense to combine the Europe trips in one trip. Three months in Eastern Europe and 3 weeks in the West. Not only save myself for too many long haul flights, but I save money and airmiles.

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Amsterdam was my first city and it was a great start for this year of travel, especially traveling with a companion for a change. After all, she wanted to see Amsterdam and I couldn’t see it without her. The jetlag the first time in Europe was totally fine and I slept like a baby that first night. This time, I felt insane, and so did she. For starters we got lost and confused with public transport since the city was renovating the Centraal train station. I rarely get frustrated while traveling but the jet lag didn’t help with my patience. She was so exhausted that she couldn’t even get frustrated with me or the experience.

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We however did arrived at our first Airbnb right outside the canal system got settled and made some time to walk around. We walked back to get groceries for our little kitchen and as expected, fell asleep at 8 pm with all of our clothes on. 12 hours later we reset our bodies and had a nice day walking around Amsterdam, ending our night off with a nice local brew at the IJ Brewery where we saw our first windmill.

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Next morning we set off on a long train journey north to the little village of Giethoorn where we caught two trains and a bus, which was costly in my opinion ($25 train, $10 round trip bus, $25 to get back.) Pricey, but it was surely worth the trip as we were the only Americans with maybe 12 to 15 other Dutch tourists. Part of the town is only accesible by boat giving you a fairytale feel, but foreal. It was incredible taking a nice boatride around. In a race against time, and the sun, we made our way to the bus (another $10 RT) that takes you all the way up to Zaanse Schans, a well preserved windmill town. Our stop was the last out of 20 stops, traffic was bad, and I was geting anxious to beat the sun. Thankfully we did, and caught a gorgeous sunset with the windmills. To cheers our trip, we went to a local coffee shop and smoked, the dirty Dutch way. 😉

Next day we set off for the mini Amsterdam city of Utrecht. The rain that day really made our trip unpleasant as we booked a last minute stay at a hostel really far from the city center and waiting around for a couchsurfing host was going to make things harder. We still made do with going into the city despite freezing rain and strong wind. We were pretty miserable, but were happy to still do our bests to enjoy it.

Thanks to the help of my little companion, we found a bus from Utrect that could take us to Kinderdijk, another area with windmills but 10 times better. We beat the rain with all of our stuff and made the experience work so well. It’s efforts like this that pay off and make you just oh so happy. We saw the windmills in an hours time in time to catch the next bus into Rotterdam where we stayed at the infamous Cubehouse, one hell of a trippy experience I must say.

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Rotterdam isn’t so mindblowing as it is much more modern despite the destruction Nazi Germany caused. But it is still a nice city to spend some time in with all the modern architecture and bridges. We managed to make our way to Schiedam to see some more windmills, went aboard the S.S. Rotterdam and grabbed a drink with a friend at Fenix Food Factory before ending our trip and making our way to Belgium. 🙂 …to be continued

neth8

Categories
Czech Republic Europe General

Getting Lost In Prague

Czech Republic Flag

Prague is a magnificent city from it’s bright days of Summer to its low clouds and days of fog. Regardless, the city allure and beauty lasts year round in all climates. From the hills to the arch bridges over the Vltava River. For me, my stay didn’t get off to the most positive start. Traveling around Central Europe during mid-November, you shouldn’t be surprised by not seeing any sun, which I didn’t. But after arriving at Prague’s main train station from Kutna Hora, I was greeted by sad, depressing weather with low clouds and hours of light rain. In addition, my $5 gas station umbrella started to give out at the wind blows walking through the city.

Prague Streetcar

Prague Rain Streets

Prague City Center
Prague City Center
Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge

Now I am not one to complain, especially while traveling, but I felt so miserable. I mean, it is the very two combined weather climates that I hate the most. In addition, Prague is not the easiest city to navigate for first timers. While Budapest has a river dividing the city creating a landmark for direction, Prague’s river creates the shape of a crescent, making point A to point B much longer than anticipated. Forget sense of direction! The city center is obviously OLD with a medieval city grid, but attempting to assume the river is east after walking two blocks doesn’t work so well like in Budapest. Not only did I have an issue finding my AirBnb apartment, but I also spent numerous nights walking in the wrong direction. Walking from the city square, for example to the Charles Bridge through side streets actually made me walk a mile or two south.

Žižkov Hill Prague
Žižkov Hill. My favorite walk in Prague.

Prague Czech Republic Grafitti

Zizkov Tower

Church of Our Lady before Týn prague city center
Sweet GoPro shot of the Prague City center

charles bridge prague czech republic gopro

While I couldn’t help the frustration in the beginning, I later realized that this is part of my own travel experience in Prague. I didn’t want to follow the crowd. Getting lost in Prague was a slightly frustrating but very memorable. Taking a turn into one of the city’s less traveled alleys and streets is a beautiful treat within itself. Nothing beats walking down a cobble stoned alley in Prague, alone, with amber colored lamps shining against the sidewalks and buildings. Even the graffiti amazed me.

Charles Bridge Prague Vltava River

Petrin Tower Prague

St. Vitus Cathedral
St. Vitus Cathedral

The downside to Prague at any given time throughout the year is it’s crowd. It’s Prague, its supposedly the 5th popular tourist city of Europe, who wouldn’t want to come here. Well everyone does, which is why you see hoards and hoards of people swarming the castle, city center, Charles Bridge, and main alleys. Despite the crowds, not only are these places still enjoyable but there are plenty of off the beaten path spots around the city to enjoy as well as taking in great city views. My personal favorite, the view of Prague from Hanavský pavilion where you can see the infamous cascade of bridges below and beyond. Or my favorite restaurant, Pivovar U Tří Růží, also a brewery. And my favorite walk through Žižkov hill with no tourists or tourist traps.

Dancing House
Dancing House
Pivovar U Tří Růží brewery and restaurant
Pivovar U Tří Růží brewery and restaurant
Drum and Bass at Roxy Nightclub
Drum and Bass at Roxy Nightclub
Karstejn Castle
Karstejn Castle

I loved Prague! So much history going back to the Medieval years, to World War 2, to the very long years of socialism. Outside of the city, the Sedlec Ossuary bone church in Kutna Hora and Karlstejn Castle are easy to reach. Prague is no Eastern Europe budget friendly city but it is not western European either. It’s affordable with many cost efficient places around the city, if you know where to look. I czeched out only a few night clubs but even these experiences were enough to satisfy my party side. The Czech cuisine is fantastic, from its duck dishes to the delishious Trdelnik , something I ate about 5 times in one day. Lastly and most importantly, Czech beer is always a must try and is absolutely good. So whether you stroll the alleys solo or stroll the Charles Bridge with a loved one, I can certainly now see why Prague is so popular for all kinds of people. But if you go, plan on getting lost, you won’t regret it. 🙂

Prague

Prague alley
Get lost in Prague, you won’t regret it.

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Czech Republic Europe General

Kutná Hora’s Sedlec Ossuary

sedlec ossuary kutna hora bone church czech republic
Traveling through the heart of the Czech Republic.
sedlec ossuary kutna hora bone church czech republic
Walking in town.

Coming from the eastern side of the Czech Republic traveling east to the capital of Prague, I could not pass up a visit to the bone church in Kutná Hora. Researching how to get there proved to me that train travel is much more flexible being there than the internet, especially in Europe. Waking up early in the city of Brno, I had my hostel receptionist research train travel to Kutna Hora. Fortunately for me, there was a direct train from Brno to Kutná Hora in an hour. So I happily checked out, hopped on a train heading to Prague (I had an empty car 90% of the way), and boom, in an hour and change, I was in the small town of Kutná Hora. I could have easily taken a bus or taxi from the station, but considering budget travel and a short walk, I headed straight to the bone church on foot. Upon arrival, there were a few tour groups ready to enter.

sedlec ossuary kutna hora bone church czech republic
The chuch exterior.
sedlec ossuary kutna hora bone church czech republic
Center of the church. Bone chandelier.

sedlec ossuary kutna hora bone church czech republic

In order to avoid having to stand within or around an annoying tour guide, I quickly entered the seemingly innocent church. After paying 90 Crowns (About $4 and change US) at the front counter, you are greeted with bones everywhere, from above and around the desk to the ceiling and walls. Down about 10 steps is the infamous chandelier of bones that will leave you with a “Holy Shit” or a “Woah” or “Wow”. It is absolutely a mind blowing sight to see such an assembly of human bones by someone from many years ago. One each I guess you could say, corner of the interior are pyramids of human skulls. On one corner is a shield representing the Coat of Arms of the Schwarzenberg. The rest of Kutna Hora is a pretty cool town to see. Unfortunately I only got to see the church and ate lunch at at restaurant down the street, but a visit here is a must if you have time to kill in the Czech Republic.

sedlec ossuary kutna hora bone church czech republic

sedlec ossuary kutna hora bone church czech republic

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Czech Republic Europe General

Brno: Second Largest City of the Czech Republic

Brno czech republic
Arriving in Brno.

The Czech Republic is an awesome country. From the history, architecture, food, culture, and of course, the beer. But alike every other popular travel destination, much of the country is in a travel shadow. Blame Prague for that. It’s like tourism in the New York Upstate vs. New York City. A foreigner probably doesn’t know enough about New York State but should know that the Upstate is amazing also.

Brno czech republic
Street in Brno.
Brno town center
Town center.
25 years anniversary velvet revolution czech republic
Signs representing 25 years since the Velvet Revolution.
Brno czech republic
Brno skyline.

The same also applies for the Czech Republic, a country most whom aren’t geographically inclined still think it’s Czechoslovakia (now obviously the Czech Republic and Slovakia.) Or better yet, only know this country for the capital city of Prague. But there so much more to this country than the touristy city of Prague, like it’s second largest city, Brno, a city south east of Prague in the region of old Moravia. I didn’t spend too much time here, but a one day experience was enough for me to enjoy much of the cities highlights.

Špilberk Castle Špilberk Castle
Špilberk Castle.
Špilberk Castle czech republic
View of Brno from Špilberk Castle.

Although it is considered a ‘large’ city, alike Bratislava, I found the city was extremely easy to navigate and see in a short period of time. Hence why I stayed for one night. For my single day/night experience here in the middle of November, it was pretty miserable, wet, cloudy, and cold. But in all honesty, the crappy climate gave the city an even more pure essence. The cobble stoned streets glistened from the street lamps, cars, trams and buildings above them. It was beautiful watching people innocently go about the day hidden under their umbrellas. Gazing up at the tops of the large cathedrals within the city center.

Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul brno czech republic
Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
25 year anniversary velvet revolution
Lanterns lit for the Velvet Revolution’s 25th anniversary.
Inside Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul brno czech republic
Inside Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
25 year anniversary velvet revolution

But what added to the allure of the city was the parade of children with custom made candle lit lanterns walking in the street. Little did I know, I was in Brno during a historic holiday, The 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, a mass movement that granted Czechoslovakia freedom and independence from socialism and free from the hands of the Soviets. After a nice prayer at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, I walked with this crowd to a small square where a fire lady spun fire and spark poi. It was an amazing surprise to walk into and a beautiful experience in a beautiful city.

mikulov czech republic town center
Memorial for all of those lost during hard times.
Categories
Czech Republic Europe General

Off The Beaten Path In South Moravia, Czech Republic

It is a known fact that when anyone mentioned the Czech Republic, most would automatically think Prague. I’m am also guilty of this in the past. It’s like foreigners who want to see the U.S. but don’t know enough besides Texas, California, and New York. But like any other country, there is more to the Czech Republic than the beautiful cathedrals and bridges of Prague. Like the other larger less popular cities of Olomouc and Brno. But fortunate for me, I not only learned about these other cities but a region within the country that is in the travel shadow to the world. The region of South Moravia, is known to be a region where Czech dialect apparently is pure and apparently, correct, and a place where you will most likely find yourself the only foreigner in a land of only Czech natives and locals.

This is something I loved about this place. After reading an article from the New York Times about a place far outside of the tourism circuit, I couldn’t pass such an authentic Czech experience. Gladly, the place is not as difficult to get to as one would assume or I assumed in the first place. Just an extra regional train ride from larger train route is all, stopping at Breslav. The train is actually two trains cars being towed by a small engine car. On my return trip to Breclav, the train car itself was in fact the same exact one. My perspective is, if the locals can travel to Mikulov, Valtice or any other small town period, a traveler can as well.

Bratislava Slovakia street
Pit stop at Breclav from Bratislava. Here I took a small regional train.

Visiting this place in November is perfect for tranquility, peace and quiet, something I was actually looking forward to considering doing plenty of Couchsurfing and some sacrificed sleep in hostels. Not forgetting the fact that there really isn’t a market for hosteling nor were there any Couchsurfers with an open couch at the time. It is low season and even though you might fight a few foreigners during the summer, chances are, I was the only foreigner in a town of nothing but Czech folks. It felt good, it felt authentic, and couldn’t have asked for a better experience. I love a good night on the town out with a good crowd or even if I am solo with the ambience of city life around me. But not here, the cobble stone streets were empty with the sound of my own footsteps and in the distance, a couple holding hands, it was perfect. This town is a Czech travel destination practically untouched to the tourism world. A festival took place in the town center, with food, amazing tasting wine, home made souvenirs all for an extremely dirt cheap price. I had a little “burrito” like dish with sausage inside for 2 Euros. Another locally made Moravian sausage link for another 2 Euros, STEAL!

mikulov czech republic
Arriving in Mikulov.
mikulov czech republic
Walking into town.
mikulov czech republic
Street in Mikulov.
mikulov czech republic
Zamek Mikulov
mikulov czech republic
Big ass barrel underground.
mikulov czech republic
Clock tower.
mikulov czech republic town center
Mikulov town center.
mikulov czech republic food
Mini lunch for two bucks.
mikulov czech republic
Starting up the hill to overlook the town.
mikulov czech republic
Beautiful view of Mikulov.
petrzalka most snp bridge Bratislava slovakia
View of the Czech Austrian border.

Leaving Mikulov and en route to Brno, I made a stopover in the small town of Valtice, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I felt the same kind of authenticity I felt in Mikulov, no tourists, no tourist traps, etc. There were barely even any Czech natives. A nice stroll into town from the train station led me to Zámek Valtice/ Valtice Castle, a massively impressive Baroque style palace right in the center of town. Adjacent to it, is a small square where at the time was completely empty, good enough for a cup of tea and a peaceful afternoon before heading off to Brno.

mikulov czech republic
Jump up for joy, I promise no pain was involved.
mikulov czech republic
Another overlook of Mikulov.
mikulov czech republic
The quiet streets of Mikulov at night.
valtice czech republic
Walking the streets of Valtice bright and early in the morning.
valtice castle zamek czech republic
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
valtice castle zamek czech republic
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Inside the Valtice Castle.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Valtice Castle.
Valtice church
Church in Valtice.

Altogether, despite the time of year, the low crowds and fog, a Sunday before a national holiday, and being in the shadow of the travel world, this place was by far the most amazing czech experience in my time in the Czech Republic, especially for my first stop in the country. I would suggest to others, but to the very few who would travel there and not vacation. I mean we wouldn’t want to diminish its authenticity would we? 🙂

petrzalka most snp bridge Bratislava slovakia

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