Traveling through the heart of the Czech Republic.
Walking in town.
Coming from the eastern side of the Czech Republic traveling east to the capital of Prague, I could not pass up a visit to the bone church in Kutná Hora. Researching how to get there proved to me that train travel is much more flexible being there than the internet, especially in Europe. Waking up early in the city of Brno, I had my hostel receptionist research train travel to Kutna Hora. Fortunately for me, there was a direct train from Brno to Kutná Hora in an hour. So I happily checked out, hopped on a train heading to Prague (I had an empty car 90% of the way), and boom, in an hour and change, I was in the small town of Kutná Hora. I could have easily taken a bus or taxi from the station, but considering budget travel and a short walk, I headed straight to the bone church on foot. Upon arrival, there were a few tour groups ready to enter.
The chuch exterior.
Center of the church. Bone chandelier.
In order to avoid having to stand within or around an annoying tour guide, I quickly entered the seemingly innocent church. After paying 90 Crowns (About $4 and change US) at the front counter, you are greeted with bones everywhere, from above and around the desk to the ceiling and walls. Down about 10 steps is the infamous chandelier of bones that will leave you with a “Holy Shit” or a “Woah” or “Wow”. It is absolutely a mind blowing sight to see such an assembly of human bones by someone from many years ago. One each I guess you could say, corner of the interior are pyramids of human skulls. On one corner is a shield representing the Coat of Arms of the Schwarzenberg. The rest of Kutna Hora is a pretty cool town to see. Unfortunately I only got to see the church and ate lunch at at restaurant down the street, but a visit here is a must if you have time to kill in the Czech Republic.
The Czech Republic is an awesome country. From the history, architecture, food, culture, and of course, the beer. But alike every other popular travel destination, much of the country is in a travel shadow. Blame Prague for that. It’s like tourism in the New York Upstate vs. New York City. A foreigner probably doesn’t know enough about New York State but should know that the Upstate is amazing also.
Street in Brno.
Town center.
Signs representing 25 years since the Velvet Revolution.
Brno skyline.
The same also applies for the Czech Republic, a country most whom aren’t geographically inclined still think it’s Czechoslovakia (now obviously the Czech Republic and Slovakia.) Or better yet, only know this country for the capital city of Prague. But there so much more to this country than the touristy city of Prague, like it’s second largest city, Brno, a city south east of Prague in the region of old Moravia. I didn’t spend too much time here, but a one day experience was enough for me to enjoy much of the cities highlights.
Špilberk Castle.
View of Brno from Špilberk Castle.
Although it is considered a ‘large’ city, alike Bratislava, I found the city was extremely easy to navigate and see in a short period of time. Hence why I stayed for one night. For my single day/night experience here in the middle of November, it was pretty miserable, wet, cloudy, and cold. But in all honesty, the crappy climate gave the city an even more pure essence. The cobble stoned streets glistened from the street lamps, cars, trams and buildings above them. It was beautiful watching people innocently go about the day hidden under their umbrellas. Gazing up at the tops of the large cathedrals within the city center.
Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
Lanterns lit for the Velvet Revolution’s 25th anniversary.
Inside Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.
But what added to the allure of the city was the parade of children with custom made candle lit lanterns walking in the street. Little did I know, I was in Brno during a historic holiday, The 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, a mass movement that granted Czechoslovakia freedom and independence from socialism and free from the hands of the Soviets. After a nice prayer at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, I walked with this crowd to a small square where a fire lady spun fire and spark poi. It was an amazing surprise to walk into and a beautiful experience in a beautiful city.
It is a known fact that when anyone mentioned the Czech Republic, most would automatically think Prague. I’m am also guilty of this in the past. It’s like foreigners who want to see the U.S. but don’t know enough besides Texas, California, and New York. But like any other country, there is more to the Czech Republic than the beautiful cathedrals and bridges of Prague. Like the other larger less popular cities of Olomouc and Brno. But fortunate for me, I not only learned about these other cities but a region within the country that is in the travel shadow to the world. The region of South Moravia, is known to be a region where Czech dialect apparently is pure and apparently, correct, and a place where you will most likely find yourself the only foreigner in a land of only Czech natives and locals.
This is something I loved about this place. After reading an article from the New York Times about a place far outside of the tourism circuit, I couldn’t pass such an authentic Czech experience. Gladly, the place is not as difficult to get to as one would assume or I assumed in the first place. Just an extra regional train ride from larger train route is all, stopping at Breslav. The train is actually two trains cars being towed by a small engine car. On my return trip to Breclav, the train car itself was in fact the same exact one. My perspective is, if the locals can travel to Mikulov, Valtice or any other small town period, a traveler can as well.
Pit stop at Breclav from Bratislava. Here I took a small regional train.
Visiting this place in November is perfect for tranquility, peace and quiet, something I was actually looking forward to considering doing plenty of Couchsurfing and some sacrificed sleep in hostels. Not forgetting the fact that there really isn’t a market for hosteling nor were there any Couchsurfers with an open couch at the time. It is low season and even though you might fight a few foreigners during the summer, chances are, I was the only foreigner in a town of nothing but Czech folks. It felt good, it felt authentic, and couldn’t have asked for a better experience. I love a good night on the town out with a good crowd or even if I am solo with the ambience of city life around me. But not here, the cobble stone streets were empty with the sound of my own footsteps and in the distance, a couple holding hands, it was perfect. This town is a Czech travel destination practically untouched to the tourism world. A festival took place in the town center, with food, amazing tasting wine, home made souvenirs all for an extremely dirt cheap price. I had a little “burrito” like dish with sausage inside for 2 Euros. Another locally made Moravian sausage link for another 2 Euros, STEAL!
Arriving in Mikulov.
Walking into town.
Street in Mikulov.
Zamek Mikulov
Big ass barrel underground.
Clock tower.
Mikulov town center.
Mini lunch for two bucks.
Starting up the hill to overlook the town.
Beautiful view of Mikulov.
View of the Czech Austrian border.
Leaving Mikulov and en route to Brno, I made a stopover in the small town of Valtice, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I felt the same kind of authenticity I felt in Mikulov, no tourists, no tourist traps, etc. There were barely even any Czech natives. A nice stroll into town from the train station led me to Zámek Valtice/ Valtice Castle, a massively impressive Baroque style palace right in the center of town. Adjacent to it, is a small square where at the time was completely empty, good enough for a cup of tea and a peaceful afternoon before heading off to Brno.
Jump up for joy, I promise no pain was involved.
Another overlook of Mikulov.
The quiet streets of Mikulov at night.
Walking the streets of Valtice bright and early in the morning.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Zamek Valtice/Valtice Castle.
Inside the Valtice Castle.
Valtice Castle.
Church in Valtice.
Altogether, despite the time of year, the low crowds and fog, a Sunday before a national holiday, and being in the shadow of the travel world, this place was by far the most amazing czech experience in my time in the Czech Republic, especially for my first stop in the country. I would suggest to others, but to the very few who would travel there and not vacation. I mean we wouldn’t want to diminish its authenticity would we? 🙂
