Categories
Fiji Kiribati Nauru New Zealand & The Pacific Tonga Tuvalu Voyages

8 BEST Qualities I Love About the Pacific Islands

(QUICK NOTE) My travels have brought me to Tonga, Fiji, Nauru, Tuvalu, Kiribati, & Marshall Islands. (I currently live in Hawai’i if that counts too)

pacific island travel map

Voyaging across the Pacific Islands has always been a dream of mine, even if I only knew about Hawai’i and Fiji. The Pacific is a vast area of ocean with endless tiny dots scattered across full of life. Tiny dots big with heart, beautiful people, and very rich in culture. Full of endless adventure on a whole new level. I spent three and a half amazing months voyaging across Polynesia, Melanesia, & Micronesia, flying, sailing, hitchhiking, living with families and like a local to best my ability. All that I have done, all the people I have met, and all that I have experienced in only a few months, has changed my life in so many ways that have honestly, made me a better person.

8 – I Never Felt Unsafe Anywhere

tongatapu tonga store shop

I am not saying that bad things don’t happen across the Pacific, but from my experiences, I have never actually felt unsafe anywhere. There was not one person or group of people that I felt had any agenda or intention to harm me or steal from me. Walking Suva at night for an ATM withdrawal was the only time I felt uneasy. However, I was still greeted by walking people and people sitting around with a “Bula”. Safe concerns weren’t actually with people, they were with hostile and violent dogs, namely Nauru and ESPECIALLY Kiribati.

Nauru People
Hitching a scooter ride with a local in Nauru

7 – Living Off the Land & Sea

It is of no surprise that many Pacific Islands are very isolated. Even main islands with frequent flight and boat services rely heavily on the land and sea. But it’s those outer islands that bring things into perspective on how life has been lived up until now. Solar brings power & rain brings water for the shower and drinking. And while corned beef and noodles are a common delicacy, the land and sea always provides. Everything from breadfruit, papaya, pandanus, and most importantly, coconut. And regardless of tide, lagoon or deep sea, sea life is some of the most delicious meals I’ve ever had.

Agriculture in Tonga
copra marshall islands
Copra in the Marshall Islands
Drinking coconut in Fiji

6 – A Sailors Dream

The Pacific Ocean and it’s endless islands is a sailors dream From Panama, the Marquesas all the way to Tonga and Fiji. At least this was the itinerary of my first captain! It was a dream of mine to find a means to hitch a ride on a sailboat. How I would do it, I had no clue! However I did figure out that clue in Vava’u, Tonga. I sailed for 19 days across from Tonga to Fiji and around some of the Fijian islands. By far one of the most freeing and liberating experiences I’ve ever had. To move across the ocean with the wind with no running motor. Watching endless sunsets and the stars at night during night watch. There are many ways to travel the world. But I feel the true way to travel, the ancient way, is going with the wind.

Sailing sailboat fiji south pacific

5 – Family is Everything

I asked my friend in Fiji, how does he live off of a few dollars an hour, working many hours a week. He said, “My working job is extra funds. I have everything right here in this village.” It was this quick conversation that allowed me to realize how drastically different my culture is. How we crave more, more more of money and materials. But life in the islands is very simple and family is everything. Everyone plays their part in a village. While one stays home to clean and cook, others gather coconut, taro, fish. Some to provide for the dinner and others for family income.

tuvalu people tuvaluan
Learning Tuvaluan with new friends in Funafuti

4 – No Such Thing as Privacy

As an honorable guest of the many village/home stays in the Pacific, I did most times get provided my own sleeping quarters. But otherwise, I had to understand, learn, and get used to the fact that privacy is nothing like at home. What every island seemed to have in common, is that it isn’t uncommon for family to live and sleep together in the same room. Even sleeping scattered across the floor of the living room. But even for me as an honorable guest, I found heads peaking in to invite me to eat even if I wasn’t fully awake. Or two young boys giggling at me running around my bed. Whatever my sleeping arrangements were, I fully embraced and enjoyed being around people so much more. I’ve couch surfed and Airbnb’d a lot in my travels giving me the experience of connecting with others. But when you do this in the Pacific islands, you becoming a big part of family.

village stay fiji
https://vimeo.com/user22679966/review/435007477/b37bfe0743

3 – Less Technology, More Connection With Culture

I admit it, I spend a lot of time on my phone. Maybe not like most stereotypes, but social media sometimes takes me prisoner. If not, I do a lot of reading about things from movies to new places to travel. But it should come to no surprise that wifi is horrible to non existent across the Pacific Islands. You’ll find that in most corners of the Pacific, people play around on technology playing games to watching movies. But as far as connectivity, the last means to do so if with an unlocked phone to access local cell towers. But even this experience was hit or miss half of the time. This distance from connecting with the world via laptop and cell phone really did allow me to connect with the world in person. So much that when I did have good wifi and cell service, I found myself getting tired of being on my phone, and would rather go for a walk and talk to someone. It honestly, felt amazing to branch a bit back in time like how things used to be, more moments to embrace…less technology.

things to do in tuvalu
Joy riding in Funafuti, Tuvalu
I Kiribati Kids in Tarawa
I-Kiribati Kids in Tarawa

2 – Different Cultures, Same Warm Hearted People

Traveling across the Pacific and giving myself the time in each place has allowed me to fully observe all of the differences between the countries. From language, how people drink kava, to how much auto tune is used in music (some places want me to kill myself). But the one quality that islanders have in common (at least from the 6 countries I have traveled) is that they all share kindness. Marshallese people are seemingly rough and unapproachable, but even here I found myself connected with people willing to buy me food or give me rides. Aloha is the word for love in Hawai’i. Give aloha and receive aloha. That concept applies to just about everywhere I’ve been. I showed love and kindness and received anything from a ride, food, to offers to stay with family.

local people of hawaii
Time with locals on Big Island, Hawaii
Being shown around Vava'u Tonga with new friends.
Being shown around Vava’u Tonga with new friends.

1 – Trust & Honesty is Everything

The most important quality I got out of this entire voyage is that I feel much happier as a person. And that is the result of enjoying honesty and a kind heart to it’s fullest potential. The people in the Pacific are some of the kindest spirited people I have ever met. And because of the amount of time spent with people, of course this kind hearted ness rubbed off on me. Actually, it is who I am now. I’ve been told more and more as time went on with this trip that I was a good man with a good heart. I realized that in order to have a good heart, one must be an honest person. From money to any mistakes I may have made. Honesty leads to a cleansed spirit and soul and just like showing a good heart, you with me treated with love and kindness. I know this sound insanely spiritual but it’s a simple way of life that is easily achieved by just being a good person. Pacific Islanders live this way and is common from Hawai’i all the way across to Tuvalu, Tonga, and even to the Maori in New Zealand.

Beach on Eua Tonga
Taking it all in in “Eua, Tonga.

I have strived to live a simple life invincible to obstacles of life stresses, taking it moment by moment anticipating the best yet preparing to handle the worst in a positive fashion. For the first time in my life I feel comfortable, with life. Who would have known these tiny islands would have such big hearts, powerful enough to has such a long term effect on this young traveler. I’ve learned many things on this voyage and I’m happy to know that these qualities will forever travel with me, to pass on to the rest of the world.

Categories
General Nauru New Zealand & The Pacific Voyages

Nauru: A Small Island Nation With Big Charm

Nauru Island

A tiny dot in the Pacific is a common phrase to define most of the small islands in the biggest ocean in the world. But tiny Nauru seems to really define that very well. I mean the island is near round and is small enough to drive around in 30 – 33 minutes by car. Where can you say you drove around an island nation like here? Nauru is an island that popped up on my curiosity about two to three years before actually arriving and one thing that stood out to me for years, was it’s incredibly ridiculous visa process. Many emails, document and photo uploads, and lots of time later, I finally arrived with my one month visa despite only going for 5 days. Yea they totally make you book accommodation and roundtrip tickets first before going.

Nauru is a weird place with many differences from what I’ve been used to in the Pacific islands. It also might as well be an extension of Australia. Imports are from Australia, watched morning news from Australia, and a large group of Nauruans live in a town basically for Nauruans. It was a country insanely rich with phosphate but intense mining ran the country dry of it’s number one resource over the span of 100 years. For a small country drivable in about 33 minutes based on GoPro video, it’s visa process is very similar to that of a soviet county on the eastern side of the iron curtain. It took me weeks before I could get my visa sorted to enter the country, not to forget my initial email months in advance just to get some things clear. Let’s just say, that internet resources, the email from immigration, and the visa application itself all contradict each other. One asks for only return flights and hotel bookings, passport bio page, proof of occupation, and Pacific Island travel itinerary. While another asks for additional things like recent passport sized photo, criminal, and health record.

But the island charm is found beyond and behind on that political nonsense. Especially the false information the news portrays about the refuge center on the island. Truth is, the refugees are welcome with open arms by Nauruans until they find a place to call home in the first world. Hell, I got a haircut from an Iranian and had a nice long talk with a Nepalese man. Any who, after sending my life of paperwork through, waiting a week for an invoice asking for 50AUD, and sending that through, I finally got my one month visitor visa granted despite only going for 5 days.

ACCOMODATION

For a country that makes you prove hotel booking and with few options, accommodation sorting can be insanely expensive. Fortunately for me, I found myself in an Airbnb right next to the airport with a small family, the kind of stay I prefer to be in as it gets me more connected with locals. Plus, hotels are lonely as hell. $400USD for 5 nights is way more than my budget allows but it’s the cheapest option on the island. Flights can also be expensive for this tiny island depending on where you come from. But lucky for me wanting to travel to Kiribati allowed me to enjoy the cheapest option of a $300 roundtrip from Tarawa. (Note: The only way to book and have a no cancellation fee was through Expedia.)

Sunset in Nauru

Things I Did

Once you are settled on the island and get a whole passport page and 1/4 taken up by immigration, you find the pure innocence nature and beauty of tiny Nauru. Walking over to Gabab beach at the end of the runway are families and tons of kids enjoying a nice swim in the ocean with two active lifeguards with the backdrop of the old phosphate cantilevers in ruins. Off of the main road you can check out the islands tiny Buada Lagoon. Hiding from some rain got me the chance to hitch a ride with a local to show me what was an old Japanese prison within the pinnacle rocks. “Topside”, are tons of gun placements and bunkers in pretty good condition at 80 years old. I met a group of guys drinking on the beach who would take the day to show me the insane mining that destroyed the islands center, but a few caves for a hell of an adventure. Had kava with a local family who arranged for me to join their boys noddy bird hunting topside. Oh yea, I ate two of those caught just because. Hitched around the island once and without even trying, rode around the island 5 additional times.

Things to do in Nauru

Things to do in Nauru

Things to do in Nauru

noddy bird Things to do in Nauru

The People

From all that I experienced on Nauru, the people are absolutely friendly alike many of the other islands I have been to. Unique in it’s own way, but with people who are willing to go out of their way to help you or take you in for food and drink. But a reputation Nauru has had for a long time in regards to people is the obesity problem at being the most obese country in the world. The reality is, Nauru was once the most obese nation, but I would say Tonga is up there. People have acknowledged the sad truth and have been proactive in keeping active and fit playing Aussie rules or running the perimeter of the runway.

Nauru Pacific Island garbage pollution

Nauru Pacific Island garbage pollution

Things to do in Nauru ww2 war pacific theatre gun

Nauru Airlines flight nauru

As for the island, the litter problem is really bad. But beyond that, Nauru is lined with some beautiful beaches. Up the northwestern corner to Anibare beach, where massive coral rocks shoot right out of the water always ready for a beautiful photo to be taken. The drive around the island during sunset will give you some beautifully lit shots of the coastline. Even chilling by the airport to watch the planes come and go is a fun thing to do. Topside is probably one of the hottest places I’ve ever been to in my travels but World War exploring without the bothers of crowds and tourist is an experience of it’s own. Nauru is a complicated place full of unusual politics and and an unfortunate recent history, but once you get passed the tedious visa process and get that passport page and 1/4 taken up, you’ll find that this tiny island is full of heart and full of charm.

Things to do nauru visit tourism travel beach

———————————————————–

Check out my FULL Nauru Experience on Youtube

Categories
General Nauru

How to Apply for a Nauru Visa (Online)

Coral Rocks Anibare Beach Nauru

So you want to visit Nauru, but realize how complicated the visa process is with information online being super vague & confusing However, you still want to visit regardless because your are an adventurer and will do what it takes to visit, just like I did. Nauru is a small island nation but like I said when I was there, small island but big in heart. That is something I will always remember. The people (both local & refugees) are kind spirited and welcoming to foreigners. Those coral rocks on Anibare beach are something out of a dream. From eating raw fish to eating noddy bird, my stomach was never sad. Nauruʻs visa process is very unusual for a Pacific island but I alike most other adventurers, figured it out on our own and had the opportunity to make it. For those out there wishing to have the opportunity to go and experience all of what we had, Iʻve created and compiled a list of things to do from start to finish before I landed on Nauru & got that passport stamp. Here we go!

Nauru's isolated location on a map, if you're unsure of where it is.
Nauru’s isolated location on a map, if you’re unsure of where it is.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

Give yourself weeks of time before you buy your flight to Nauru. It can take weeks to over a month to finally get a visa approved. Correspondence with Nauru immigration takes time and getting flight and hotel refunds may not be the easiest thing to do.

__________________________________________

Email Immigration

The first things to do is email rajeevnauruimmigration@gmail.com. This is the immigration officer on Nauru who oversees & reviews all non-Nauruan applicants wishing to visit Nauru. He is the very person who will either approve that visa or deny it for whatever that reason is. There are after all, only a certain amount of visitors to Nauru. Despite what it seems, most people seem to get approved like me and other likeminded adventurers. Send that email & that reply will be a PDF file of an application & a long check list of things to do before visiting Nauru.

Fill out the Application (See note below about NZ/Aussie Citizens)

Application form – Visitor Visa This is the very application I received from Rajeev via Email. Keep in mind, immigration may have updated their application since October 2018. Email them first!

The application is actually pretty straightforward and honestly no need for me to add much insight and information other than. Some things you will need to come back to as I did! Proposed address in Nauru will have to be filled in once you have booked accommodation in Nauru. I left the date at the end of the application blank until my application was finalized.

*If youʻre from NZ/Australia, apparently you need to provide a sponsorship letter from a citizen of Nauru:

Name of Sponsor

Place of residence in Nauru

Relationship to this person

Terms of sponsorship (Not sure what this means exactly)

*Also, at the time of writing (10/2019) journalistic activity is highly guarded. Not that itʻs illegal per se, but the government charges 8,000 AUD for a visa for any journalistic activities on Nauru thanks to much of the debate about itʻs detention center on the island. That 8,000 AUD, is NON REFUNDABLE too. Holy crap!

3) Scan a copy of your Passport Biopage

If you are in a country that has the convenience of having an abundance of scanners and strong wifi, use it to your advantage. Scan your passport biopage and save it somewhere online. I used Google Drive!

US passport biopage example
Example of a passport biopage

4) Take recent Passport sized photos of yourself (..and write your name on the back of them)

This made the least sense to me as it was on the list of things needed on the application & not on the email list of things needed. However, it is needed and so I made sure I had it. May not be convenient for you if you are traveling in a pretty isolated country, but people take passport photos to get their passports, so who said you couldn’t either. I took mine in New Zealand before I left and carried them with me through the Pacific Islands until I needed them.

Passport sized photos Nauru

* When I needed to show these, I (cringe) took a photo of the photos and sent it via email with my application. Immigration after all said to send it all via email. Iʻll explain more below.

5) Show proof of flight tickets to/from Nauru

Once you are sure of the intended amount of time you wish to stay on Nauru and exact dates assuming you reflect that on the time schedule of Nauru Airlines, the only airlines serving Nauru, you will need that itinerary to accompany your visa application. Alike most Pacific islands, you cannot show up on a one way ticket without being asked for a return ticket. While you can get away with a fake ticket in other places, Nauru Immigration will most likely not be fooled by this and will be sure to ask for more information on your onward flight.

One word of advice: Just in case the visa gets denied, be sure your flights have cancellation with 100% refund. Same for your accommodation bookings. I booked my AirNauru flights via Expedia because they offered free cancellation with 100% refund. And Airbnb has their refunds on a listing basis but still, anything counts in the event of denial.

5a) Provide copies of other Pacific Island travel

Having traveled to Tonga, Fiji, Tuvalu, & Kiribati before Nauru with intentions of visiting Marshall Islands before Hawaiʻi, guess what…. I didnʻt even bother with this part of the application.

6) Show proof of accommodation in Nauru

Nauru is a small island, so itʻs easy to realize that accommodation options arenʻt of great abundance. There are three operating hotels on the island at the time of writing: Aiwo, Meneng, & Budapest Hotels. Airbnb also has a few listings on the island, one with Meneng Hotel & the other with an incredible couple I had the pleasure of staying with, Matthew & Tricia. If you choose Airbnb, the receipt you get after booking works good enough with immigration.

Nauru Accomodation Airbnb

Show proof of employment/occupation

This was probably the most confusing request to me, as I was traveling to Nauru unemployed having left my job in New Zealand for the Pacific islands. And leaving my last real American job years before going to Nauru to live a life of travel. So for a backpacker and world traveler, this may seem super irrelevant. I thought about putting Youtuber on the application but didn’t want it to categorize me as a journalist, goodbye 8,000 AUD. So I just told Rajeev in my final email that I am unemployed and on holiday. Which led me to just show Proof of Funds! Like most visas, I guess they want to know if you have enough to support your stay so you don’t…stay. Well, I guess Nauru has had their fair share of people coming and not going & chose to screenshot a bank statement to prove I wasn’t staying for good.

Send off the Application & all documents back to Rajeev ONLINE

Once youʻre done with everything, review all that is needed and that you have it all, and send it back to Rajeev. Yes, send it via Email. Nothing is more confusing than to have an application with requirements that seem like they have to be mailed in. Yea sure you can, but I guess Nauru caught up a little with the times and just requests everything done via email with Rajeev/immigration. Too bad the application isnʻt caught up. Just a simple open of a word document would suffice…?

To add to the experience, I happened to be in Suva & visited the Nauru High Commision to get more information on the visa application. All they could tell me was to do it online. Literally zero help whatsoever & I didn’t even make it past the receptionist. But yep, it’s all done online!

Pay for the Visa

Once immigration receives everything, they will process and review everything taking about one week. For me, it took two days for a response and five more days after that to receive an email instructing you to wire over 50AUD to pay for the cost of the visa. Here is what the invoice looks like!

Nauru Visa Payment cost invoice
What a Nauru visa invoice looks like!

Bank transfer was easy for me as I still had my New Zealand bank account open with funds in it and was able to send out and have it received by their Australian bank within the same day. To transfer the funds I used Transferwise, which is a cost efficient, safe, and quick means to transfer funds to different bank accounts around the world.

Is transferwise safe Nauru

Visa Granted

Nauru Visa Approval How to get nauru visa
Nauru Visa Approval

After days to weeks and I guess for some, month, a visa does get granted & you’re free and set to experience the tiny island nation of Nauru.  The visa application process seems tedious and a pain in the ass for a Pacific Island nation being the third smallest country in the world after Monaco. But if you are just as adventurous as I am to kill your curiosity about this island like I was, do it. Go through the hurdles via email! Take those passport photos! Visit a Nauruan Consulate! Do it! Nauru is certainly worth it!

Oh, be sure to have an offline copy of your visa on your phone if you can’t print it and have it ready for immigration when they check it. It will make things smooth at Nauru airport 🙂

Tarawong!

Categories
General Nauru

Catching & Eating Noddy Bird | A Nauruan Tradition


Nauru is already an island very many people have not even heard of nor can pin point correctly, what region of the Pacific itʻs on. Most adventurers have in fact, heard of Nauru mostly because they are doing some sort of 190 countries achievement which seems to be the things nowadays. With that being said, those who venture to Nauru for a number often visit for a short two nights and take off, giving no opportunity into the life and culture of the island which is to be had. For me, I decided to stay 5 whole nights despite the hefty cost to my poor travel budget. However I will have to say that it was worth it. In 5 days, I was able to get a lick of the island language, Nauruan, met some locals to take me into some horrifying caves, and best of all, take a ride Topside to enjoy what I would later find out to me, the Nauruan tradition of catching Noddy bird.

Meeting islanders in the Pacific is one of the best things about traveling the Pacific & Nauru is no different. Especially considering the island nationʻs visa process filters our so much tourism, itʻs no wonder why locals are that much more enthusiastic about talking to foreigners. On my first night eating out at one of the many Chinese restaurants, I met a woman who helped me order food who would later become a friend, inviting me over to their home later along my Nauru trip, and inviting me to join her children on their moped Topside for a daily routine of catching some birds. To be honest, I was more intrigued with taking a journey with locals Topside.

When I arrived at the house at 6pm like they asked me to, I hopped on the back of one scooter & my driver handed me some long wooden pool with netting at the end. We rode 15 minutes before venturing back into the pinnacles rocks I had explored in direct sun days before. After tucking the mopeds away (since people actually do steal mopeds here), we all set up shop, the guys set up their pools and the netting to form a massive and long lookin lacrosse pool. They also set up a cd player connected to a megaphone with some sketchy wiring to play something. I mean how are they going to attract the Noddy bird? The CD had tracks of Noddy birds in distress. This would be the means to attract the Noddy bird to the location. The problem was, there was our group as well as about 7 other groups in the area doing this. Talk about “competition”.

Nauru noddy bird

Nauru noddy bird

Nauru noddy bird

It was a long and slow night according to them as they caught only 4 bird opposed to 30 or more on other nights. Catching them would make an animal rights person vomit and faint. The bird is grabbed by the tail, turned upside down and shaken to remove any unwanted food later on. After that, the catcher then bites the neck to kill the bird instantly. I asked one of them how was your first experience doing this. He said the blood made him feel terrible but got over it quickly. Me, yea…no! Once it became pitch black, we took the birds home and unloaded them for the true stomach experience.

The birds were all set on the floor & defeathered for obvious unwanted feathery ingredients at dinner. Then a torch is set on each bird for a minute or so, up, down and all around. I had learned that Noddy birds go for about $1 Australian on the street but for the tourist experience and personal curiosity to truly feel at home in Nauru, I had to eat and try Noddy bird. Two birds were set in a frying pan with oil like chicken wings & once done, a plate was set for me to eat with an audience (the whole family) to watch me. All i have to say, it was horribly….delicious. Tasted a little like chicken, yet somehow better.

This is what travel is all about! The taking of time to truly engage, embrace, and be a part of the life in where you travel to. You arrive as a traveler, and continue on as a local with the mindset that you truly never left in spirit. Catching & eating Noddy bird is only one of several experiences on this tiny island nation that serves as that example. As small as this island is, itʻs certainly huge in heart, spirit, and hospitality. Nauruʻs visa process may not make sense & be tedious as hell, but man…if and when you do get granted, you wonʻt regret the charm here.
_____________________________________________________________________

Coral Rock Nauru