Categories
General Nauru

Catching & Eating Noddy Bird | A Nauruan Tradition


Nauru is already an island very many people have not even heard of nor can pin point correctly, what region of the Pacific itʻs on. Most adventurers have in fact, heard of Nauru mostly because they are doing some sort of 190 countries achievement which seems to be the things nowadays. With that being said, those who venture to Nauru for a number often visit for a short two nights and take off, giving no opportunity into the life and culture of the island which is to be had. For me, I decided to stay 5 whole nights despite the hefty cost to my poor travel budget. However I will have to say that it was worth it. In 5 days, I was able to get a lick of the island language, Nauruan, met some locals to take me into some horrifying caves, and best of all, take a ride Topside to enjoy what I would later find out to me, the Nauruan tradition of catching Noddy bird.

Meeting islanders in the Pacific is one of the best things about traveling the Pacific & Nauru is no different. Especially considering the island nationʻs visa process filters our so much tourism, itʻs no wonder why locals are that much more enthusiastic about talking to foreigners. On my first night eating out at one of the many Chinese restaurants, I met a woman who helped me order food who would later become a friend, inviting me over to their home later along my Nauru trip, and inviting me to join her children on their moped Topside for a daily routine of catching some birds. To be honest, I was more intrigued with taking a journey with locals Topside.

When I arrived at the house at 6pm like they asked me to, I hopped on the back of one scooter & my driver handed me some long wooden pool with netting at the end. We rode 15 minutes before venturing back into the pinnacles rocks I had explored in direct sun days before. After tucking the mopeds away (since people actually do steal mopeds here), we all set up shop, the guys set up their pools and the netting to form a massive and long lookin lacrosse pool. They also set up a cd player connected to a megaphone with some sketchy wiring to play something. I mean how are they going to attract the Noddy bird? The CD had tracks of Noddy birds in distress. This would be the means to attract the Noddy bird to the location. The problem was, there was our group as well as about 7 other groups in the area doing this. Talk about “competition”.

Nauru noddy bird

Nauru noddy bird

Nauru noddy bird

It was a long and slow night according to them as they caught only 4 bird opposed to 30 or more on other nights. Catching them would make an animal rights person vomit and faint. The bird is grabbed by the tail, turned upside down and shaken to remove any unwanted food later on. After that, the catcher then bites the neck to kill the bird instantly. I asked one of them how was your first experience doing this. He said the blood made him feel terrible but got over it quickly. Me, yea…no! Once it became pitch black, we took the birds home and unloaded them for the true stomach experience.

The birds were all set on the floor & defeathered for obvious unwanted feathery ingredients at dinner. Then a torch is set on each bird for a minute or so, up, down and all around. I had learned that Noddy birds go for about $1 Australian on the street but for the tourist experience and personal curiosity to truly feel at home in Nauru, I had to eat and try Noddy bird. Two birds were set in a frying pan with oil like chicken wings & once done, a plate was set for me to eat with an audience (the whole family) to watch me. All i have to say, it was horribly….delicious. Tasted a little like chicken, yet somehow better.

This is what travel is all about! The taking of time to truly engage, embrace, and be a part of the life in where you travel to. You arrive as a traveler, and continue on as a local with the mindset that you truly never left in spirit. Catching & eating Noddy bird is only one of several experiences on this tiny island nation that serves as that example. As small as this island is, itʻs certainly huge in heart, spirit, and hospitality. Nauruʻs visa process may not make sense & be tedious as hell, but man…if and when you do get granted, you wonʻt regret the charm here.
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Coral Rock Nauru

Categories
General Tonga

The Friendly Islands | A Truth About Tongan People

Offloading in Ha'apai Islands
Offloading passengers in the Ha’apai Islands

Captain Cook is a name planted on every corner of major Pacific Islands. From New Zealand to Hawaii. For Tonga, Captain Cook classified the Tongan islands as “The Friendly Islands”, a title that has stuck to Tonga as a motto. I didn’t take note of this until I arrived in Tongatapu airport and saw signs all over the small airport terminal. I didn’t come to any conclusions about a place I hadn’t been yet, but the responses I got from a number of Kiwis about coming here were extremely negative and harsh. “Tonga? Why you wanna go there mate”. “Why don’t you go to Cook Islands or Fiji?”. Because I f***ing want to bro! “Bro they still eat people there.” Mind you these are people that do like to enjoy pricey resorts and relaxation so I can’t get too defensive.

Hitching rides on Tongatapu

Tonga realistically isn’t a place for those top notch relaxation resorts. I mean, resorts exist here, but they don’t match up to the standards of your stereotypical resorts. In fact, I find them more of a backpackers luxury fix, with accommodation set up to best of a locals ability to me at least some standards for comfort. The walls may be thin with visiting rats and the showers aren’t the cleanest but everything is there to meet a backpackers needs. Simplicity!

Helping water kava plants in Vava'u
Helping water kava plants in Vava’u
Gift from my friend in Vava'u before sailing to Fiji
Gift from my friends in Vava’u before sailing to Fiji

But apart from the low expectation to have when finding a place to stay, I was surprised to find out how incredibly kind the people were. I mean I didn’t expect them to be asshole nor did I expect them to be really friendly. Really friendly is what they were. I mean nearly everyone took time out to smile at me or smile back at me responding to my “Malo e lelei”. Whether I was on a bus, passing in the street in Nuku’alofa or Pangai in Ha’apai, the owner at Tisa’s resort, or the owner of a roadside shop. Hitchhiking works so well, people sometimes have gone out of their way to help me get to my final destination. Being taken into the home of a family in Pangaimotu, Vava’u was the highlight of it all. Being dressed to join them on Sunday church, eating Umu, showing me around the island and ways of life (Fertilizing kava, catering to taro plants, feeding pig and cow). But, just about everyone greeted me and treated me with lots of kindness and was a major highlight to my time in Tonga and even the Pacific thus far.

Hitchhiking with Tongans
Friendly locals picking me up on Tongatapu.

I don’t have expectations anymore before i go anywhere but I did know that there was a higher level of kindness across the Pacific islands. I usually have a natural awareness that people try to seek something in return from kindness. I say this because in Cuba, people were friendly but because of low wages people always wanted something in return, which is fine. But Bosnia & Herzegovina and Tonga remain as the two countries so far of the kindest people that went a long way to show kindness without asking for anything in return. Tonga for me and my travels, will always be remembered as one of the friendliest countries I’ve ever been to.

Show around Vava'u island
Show around Vava’u island
Lookout in northern Vava'u
Lookout in northern Vava’u
Categories
General New Zealand & The Pacific Tonga

11 Things To Do | Tongatapu Island, Tonga

map-tongatapu things to do
My map of Tongatapu & it’s best highlights

With a few things to enjoy in Nuku’alofa, it’s outside of town that offers more to do, see, & enjoy. I caught local buses, hitchhiked, and joined friends I made on the road around the island to see some of these incredible sites. Here are the best experiences on Tongatapu if you decide to come!

Ha’amonga’a Maui Trilithon

A short trail from Ha’amonga’a Maui delivers some nice coastal views.

Captain Cook’s Landing Spot on Tongatapu

‘Anahulu Cave

‘Oholei Beach 

Keep an eye out for flying foxes

Photo not mine

Abel Tasman’s Landing Spot


Hufangalupe Natural Land Bridge

Hufangalupe Natural Land Bridge

Royal Palace, Tonga

Triple Headed Coconut

Photo not mine

Tsunami Rock … aka Tolo ʻA Maui

Mapu ‘A Vaea Blowholes

By far my favorite highlight on Tongatapu.

Categories
General New Zealand & The Pacific Tonga

New Zealand to Tonga: Adjusting to The Pacific Islands

I spent an incredible year in New Zealand. A small slice of my young life that will live on with me forever. I saw much of the country on motorcycle, living in South Islands Picton as a cocktail bar manager and a simple housesitting like in Auckland’s North Shore with lots of travel in between. But it would come the day where I would leave this temporary life behind due to visa expiration for the Pacific Islands, my long awaited journey and a style of travel I hadn’t experienced before.

Leaving my life in New Zealand as well as my motorcycle mid sale was incredibly hard but I was definitely ready for something new. Three ish hours from Auckland, I found myself on Tongatapu, my first island on my new Pacific Island Voyage. My third Pacific island including Hawai’i Island and O’ahu since my Achilles rupture and surgery last year. Since I arrived at night, it was really hard to take it all in considering all I saw were street lamps and other cars arriving at a place recommended by my taxi driver since my desired guesthouse was booked up. Sounds super harsh but it was a bit overpriced for a single dirty room in a brothel looking guesthouse. But hey, I still accepted my stay as it was only about $20 wish USD for a night. It would be the next day where I would arise to a moving Nuku’alofa filled with men in Ta’ovalas and tupenus with Tongan women in their traditional attire as well. Observing the slightly chaotic streets opposite the uniformity of movement in much of New Zealand. The sound of blaring car music to a new Polynesian language actually spoken opposite of Maori drowned out by English. Walking around as much as I can to really take it all in, but it was still tough. Missing having keys in my pocket to start up my cruiser and go wherever I wanted. Fortunately there are two touristy cafes in the center to enjoy a decent flat white as I had so many in New Zealand to transition into my new travel style.

It would be that first full day in Nuku’alofa where I would swiftly transition into this beautiful culture. I decided to take a local bus outside of town just to get a feel of things and oddly, I began to feel more at home. It had been 3 years since my last tropical island, Cuba, and so many things became so familiar. A kind local woman gave me a ride back into town and I was soon ready to take on Tonga. Next day, I caught the same local bus even further out of the town center to see the uninteresting Cook Landing site. From here I would hitch my ride with a local to Ha’amonga’a Maui Trilithon site followed my four or five additional rides around beaches and places of interest. Next day I would borrow a Ta’avala & Tupenu to enjoy a day at church with friends I made the day before before riding around the rest of the island I didn’t get to see. Next day I would make it to ‘Eua island to continue my adventure.

Before I continue on rambling on about my travels, I just want to acknowledge how difficult it may seem to leave HOME all over again. Regardless if it’s HOME HOME or a home I created for myself. Adjusting to a new culture and way of life may be hard, but after all I am a traveler and adapting to change is what I do best. May not seem that way, but yes, it comes with as a world traveler. Embracing newness and gliding along with it. I have been in Tonga for a week now and seemingly longer. I have fully adapting to being here and the Pacific way of life and movement to enjoy the rest of my travels until Hawai’i. The people here are so friendly and fulfilling this long overdue dream of traveling this vast area of small islands has come true. An achilles tendon injury alone, can’t stop me!

Categories
General New Zealand & The Pacific

5 Major Things I Will Miss About New Zealand

Overlook Lake Hawea
Overlook Lake Hawea

Kia ora world!

After 11 whole months at the end of the world here in New Zealand and one whole week left before I begin my Pacific Islands travel, I am in just the right state of mind and emotions to tap into how I feel based on reflecting on all I have done. This country and it’s working holiday has done so much my me and my growth as a traveler and let alone as a person. I haven’t left yet, but I am preparing myself for all of the things I will miss about New Zealand. And taking a minute to think and write it down, I have come up with five things that I will truly miss after I leave here.

5) Lingo & That Kiwi Accent

New Zealand Slang
Credit: Discover New Zealand

It might come as a surprise to many people, especially those who think New Zealand is too much like Australia is incredible wrong, that New Zealand has it’s own accent and lingo. Maybe it isn’t a suprise…whatever. Anyways, I arrived in New Zealand to begin my year and I just could not see myself saying “Yea nah” “Sweet as mate” “Chur!”. I thought it sounded goofy as shit! But around my 9th month here, it hit me like a bomb at the fact that I realized, I was truly sounding like a Kiwi. More like a New Yorker with a strong twist of Kiwi slang. Hard to beleive but I truly began to enjoy things Kiwis say. “Chur” “Choice” “Far out” “Legend” “All good/All good?” “eh?”. The list goes on.

And for that Kiwi accint. Yes, I wrote accint because the Kiwi E sounds more like an I. Yis it does. Let’s just say that I fell in love with the sweet Kiwi accent well before I arrived here. There is something pleasant and smooth about the accent that makes it easy to listen to. I mean I hate to bash Aussies, but I always found the Aussie accent sounding harsh and obnoxious. But then again, maybe it’s just the ones I’ve met. I will miss hearing the Kiwi accent after I leave and I could just see myself at full attention when I hear that rare Kiwi accent abroad.

4) New Zealand is so Peaceful*

Now I make this statement with an * because that is too direct of a statement for an entire country. New Zealand does have a homeless issue, gangs exist, crimes happen, etc. But in comparison to the world, let along my home country of USofA where everyone is divided, New Zealand seems like such a laid back place. I mean for a country at the end of the world in a world of technology, there just still seems to be this attitude like, we are too far down here to be too involved in the worlds bullshit. Sounds a bit ridiculous but from my experiences, people are content with being a world power but in a positive or even neutral manner. And New Zealands stance seems just as that. I mean it’s presence in the Pacific Islands is so positive providing resources and education to those in need.

Anaura Bay East Cape
Anaura Bay East Cape

I have spent an entire year here. Been just about everywhere and experience much of what this country has to offer and I have concluded both from human connections and connections to the land here, that this is a land and people of peace and harmony. A major part of this energy, will surely hang around with me and my travels forever!

3) Kindest People

Going along the lines with my last one, the people here are generally super kind. I have come across some deushy (However you spell that) people here in my travels for sure, especially those impatient dickheads on the road in the South Island (I know distances are super long but no reason to run a guy on a motorcycle off the road so you can have your mince pie at home). Damn anywho! Because of what I said about the Kiwi stance in viewing the world and way of life here, I feel like that naturally just allows people to be super chill, laid back, and kind.

Hitching rides works well in New Zealand
Hitching rides works well in New Zealand.

I have met many Kiwis that are well traveled which can bring home a major appreciation for life at home. Countless times, have I heard how much Kiwis love home so much more after they come back. Life is simple, the air is clean, there is so much space, and the environment is care after. How could you not live at peace here.

2) It’s incredibly Beautiful

Speaking of the environment being cared for, it’s no wonder why Kiwis are so eco careful on using paper straws and doing away with plastic bags. The nature here is majestic and powerful in so many ways, how could you want to destroy that. New Zealand in one word for me, was abstract. Why? Because it’s a mashup of so many forms of beauty in one, that it doesn’t seem real. But it very much is, real.

Milford Sound Panorama

East Cape Te Araroa
East Cape Te Araroa

 

I could go on with examples. Milford Sound, Northland and East Cape Bays, Taupo and Tongariro Crossing, Glacier lakes of Wakatipu, Wanaka, Hawea, and Tekapo. Coromandel to the Catlins. Volcanic tourism in Rotorua. Taranaki mountain to Roy’s Peak. Windy roads along the west coast to straight never-ending roads in Canterbury. Kaikoura coast to Hawkes Bay. No seriously, I could go on!

Paku Summit Tairua Coromandel
Paku Summit Tairua Coromandel

Now it may be a suprise that the beauty is not number one…well number one goes to….

1) Beautiful Maori culture, tradition, and spirituality

Sorry not sorry guys, the southernmost corner of Polynesia is blessed with the beautiful Maori people. Aotearoa (Maori for New Zealand, Land of the long white cloud) is a beautiful country and I feel that it is so important for any traveler, to fully embrace and try to understand the energy from the land here. The Maori have always had a special and spiritual connection to the land and especially the sea, and having traveled around the country seeing all I have seen, I can say without doubt, that I have felt a natural and spiritual connection with the land.

Maori Woorwork East CaspeMaori Woorwork East CaspeMaori Woorwork East Caspe

 

I am truly in love with the craftsmanship the Maori people put into their woodcarving and overall carving skills. From the fascades of meeting houses to the very bone hei matau (fishhook) I bought at the Auckland War memorial Museum to be blessed before I depart across the Pacific. The haka war chant is undoubtedly one of the most powerful things I have ever heard and felt. The art and meaning of Tiki and other figures carved around all across New Zealand. Maori music is beautiful in it’s own way as well as traditional tattooing.

Haka Maori War Chant Auckland Museum
Haka performed at the Auckland War Memorial Museum

Maori Design Maori Design Tiki

Unlike Hawai’i near cultural destruction, Maori culture and language has been able to keep it’s grasp on itself to thrive as an ongoing culture. Many towns and cities across New Zealand have kept it’s Maori name. Maori tribes are still recognized. And despite English dominating the language here, Maori is still a spoken language by many Maori. I mean hell, I heard three young Maori speaking their native tongue next to me in the Maori court at the Auckland Musuem.

All I am saying is, culture is still present here. It may not be as obvious like landing off of the plane in Tuvalu. But it is here. I feel the most important thing about being here, is allowing yourself to connect with the culture and the energy here.

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I love New Zealand and the year I have spend here has made me appreciate many things on so many new levels that I will take will me forever in my travels. I have trully lived an incredible dream here, traveling the country on two wheels and seeing all the beauty it has to offer. Connecting with the many friendly Kiwis along my journey! And best off, embracing the culture in a very personal and spiritual way. New Zealand, I will miss you! But it’s not goodbye, because you are very much now, a major part of my life. <3