I didn’t visit Fiji with any expectations. In fact, I didn’t know much about Fiji other then it’s a popular tourist destination until a few months until I actually went. Thanks to a library membership in my Auckland home, I picked up a couple of books and gave me the information I needed in order to experience Fiji the way I wanted to. Basically, steering clear and away from all of the touristy places that take up a big chunk of Fiji, namely the Mamanucas, Yasawas, and Coral Coast. I knew that there was a lot to do and that I wouldn’t see it all. But aside from that, I did want an incredibly cultural experience. How I would do so, it would just happen naturally.
I would have never thought that I would arrive in Fiji via sail. My first experience by sail was from Vava’u, Tonga, across some ocean, passing the southern Lau Islands group, into Suva harbour, over to Beqa island and the Mamanucas. My captains plans changed as we were originally going to sail some northern Lau and Vanua Levu but ended our trip in Lautoka. Him continuing on by boat to go home and me on foot. I knew at this point, that the best way to transition from being stuck on a boat to back on my own was to try and do a homestay or even couch surf with a local. Lucky for me, I was able to find a host that allowed me to stay with her family on the outskirts of Lautoka town. I wasn’t the first one invited into the home, so it sort of felt like I was an extra task for the family. Yet they became more friendly and welcoming into the family as time went on, which unfortunately was only for two short days.
My true Fijian experience was a new friend I made via an old friend from many years ago back home. My friend picked me up in Nadi and a few hours later, I was welcomed into his home and village as if I was part of the family. Truly the most heart felt welcome like I was part of the family. I was welcomed with smiles and a proper little kava night to get me relaxed and set for a good nights rest (We arrived late at night.) I will never forget the entire welcome and hospitality I received from the entire village as they came out of their homes to wave and greet me with a smile and “Bula Tony”. News spreads fast in the village as not only is a “vavalangi” staying there but even my name in short was known to everyone. “Hi Tony” being shouted out to me anytime I walked around is still something that touches my heart until this day.
I arrived with a stomach virus so I was awkwardly using the toilet quite frequently, but was always asked how I was by many people. Like I said, news spreads fast. Even had one woman sit me down to pray for me. Speaking of prayer, I could not miss out on a Fijian Sunday without going to church. I was dressed in a nice blue bull shirt and sulu and joined one of the several church services in town. Despite trying to sit on the floor amongst the village, it was strongly insisted by the pastor, that I sit in the only chair there. As awkward as I felt, it was important for them to have me be comfortable as a guest even though I was perfectly fine being a Fijian. On my second to last day, my young friends walked me over to their nearby “Golden” river to enjoy a nice river swim and yes, even a bath as they brought soap to have, a bath. I was certainly well taken care of everywhere I went because even joining another family for soccer on tv, I was still offered lunch and juice to fill my semi sick stomach.
Another day was well spend joining up with my host who worked at the nearby Yatule resort after he got off. After a nice refreshing swim in the ocean, my host popped in the sea, speared some fish, set up a campfire, and smoked the fish. We sat next to the fire squeezing out as much lime as we could, mixed in some water, chili, and finally our smoked fish to have what’s called, Wai tom-tom. By far the simplest things you can eat yet insanely good.
Another major highlight was the insanely high amounts of kava my body was able to take in. 40 kava bowls on kava night and can’t believe I lasted that long. It started off with contributing $20 FJD into kava at the tiny store (someone room in their house with common good + kava) and being instructed how to enter the room. Walk in, sit at the back and at the end of the kava round, walk over to the elders saying “chilou” repeatedly (excuse me) and introducing myself and after doing so, sitting back down in the back. Eventually I was invited to sit closer to the chiefs, and finally, in the spot of where a chief would sit. Not sure if it was true, but was told that I was sitting in place of a chief and that I am an honorable guest as the chief for the evening. Hell of a responsibility for someone who can’t speak Fijian but what an honor man, haha. I walked in slightly nervous and intimated to being fully comfortable and taking in my everyone in there. I shared many stories about my life and my travels which everyone was interested in. And eventually telling endless jokes that spread around to jokes being made with everyone. Like explaining what a lady boy is and one guy so kava’d out that he called them “girl boys”. By kava number 38, I was certainly feeling the effects of fatigue and a desire to sleep. Kava night like a true Fijian at it’s best.
My departure would come soon, fast, as I had to book an onward ticket getting off of the sail. I gave myself a week since getting off the boat. Seemed like enough time. But, turned out to be too short staying in my Fijian home away from home. The villagers were as sad if not more sad then I am, as they kept asking me when I was leaving to wish me a proper farewell. The proper farewell, was drinking fresh coconut via tree climb and coconut skin snack at the edge of the village. Once my ride arrived to Sigatoka, the kids waved “bye Tony” until my car disappeared. It’s been only a few days and I miss my Fijian family and my home away from home. I know this feeling is going to last a very long time. The warmth and care I received from this village is like nothing I’ve experienced before and is why I won’t forget it. Fortunately, there is much more of Fiji to experience and explore which adds on to even more of a reason to return, and that, I can’t wait for. 
BULA VINAKA!!!
