Categories
Fiji General New Zealand & The Pacific Tonga Voyages

How to HITCH A SAIL | South Pacific Experiences

Hitchhiking in Macedonia (FYROM)
Hitchhiking in Macedonia (FYROM) (2016)

Hitchhiking was a major step forward for me in my travels and in my life as it opened the possibilities to travel with no restrictions. Being in the South Pacific only further pushed my desire to find a ride a new and incredible way, by sail on the open seas. I sailed 19 days from Tonga to the Fiji islands because of a long desire and aspiration and that dream came true with a little bit of work. Here is how I did it step by step:

 

Sailing South Pacific FIji
Hitching the South Pacific seas by sail (2018)

1) Visit the Local Marina

Your first step in hitching a sail is like finding a good place on the road with enough space going the direction you would like to go. Same thing with sailing, finding the port or marina and seeking a ride in the direction you would like to go. My first stop in the South Pacific was, the Kingdom of Tonga straight from New Zealand. Tonga has three major island groups; Tongatapu, Haʻapai, & lastly Vavaʻu, where I would find my ride. In Vavaʻu I had to ask around and research where in the marina I would have to go to find a boat that needed crew and would later find myself at the Mangos Cafe in Neiafu Harbor.

Neiafu Harbor Vavau Tonga Neiafu Harbor Vavau Tonga

Neiafu Harbor Vavau Tonga

 

2) Ask to Hop on A VHF Radio / Or Make Convo with Sailors

I had read few blogs where people looking to become crew on a boat simply walked into a marina pub or cafe and simply walked around asking crew if they were looking for crew. I initially had that idea to try, but instead I opted to send out a morning broadcast out to boats in the marina meeting the manager of the cafe to do so.

Coffee Mangos Cafe

 

3) Make A Presentable Broadcast

The most crucial step in finding a sail is obviously getting the message out to the boats. At Mangos Cafe, I connected with the manager who gave me a chance to hop on the VHF radio during a morning broadcast for Neiafu harbour sailboats. On a funny note, my 1 minute broadcast didn’t even make it out as I didnʻt hold the button hard enough (embarrassing to share to this day). But the manager had made the single mention that someone was seeking to become crew on a boat, and fortunately for me, that was enough.

Coffee Mangos Cafe VHF Radio Sail hitching a sail

 

3a?) Be Honest in Your Broadcast

When you commit to a ride on a sail boat as crew, you are literally stuck with that/those person(s) for quite some time. So itʻs best to say, be as honest as you can on that broadcast. If you have zero experience as I did, explain that you have zero experience. If you had sailing experience in the past, share that. Just be completely honest! If you get denied a ride on a boat, thatʻs fine. You would rather figure out your options than to be stuck with someone on a small boat being complete assholes to each other.

4)Arrange to Meet Your Captain to Be (on the boat is best)

If you had been as lucky as I was finding a captain on the same day as my initial broadcast, then I couldnʻt stress how important it is to arrange a meet with the very person you could be spending days, weeks, even months with. Like those short moments chatting with a driver getting to know their aura before hopping in the car, this allows you to feel your captain to be in however long you speak. Thatʻs the beauty of it, is the amount of time you get to truly feel out your possible home on water. Captain & I met at the marina cafe, but he did take me on boat the next day because we hit it off so well. With that being said, I feel that itʻs just as important to get a look & feel for the boat before you say yes to a ride.

 

Hitching a sailboat
Hitching a sailboat Hitching a sailboat

 

5) Plan Out Your Paths & Set Sail.

 

Setting Sail Tonga to Fiji Hitching a sail
Coordinates set for Suva, Fiji from Tonga.

Once you and your captain and crew on the boat are ready to take you on in as part of the journey, you will look into the weather patterns & wind in the direction you are going first. Once that all looks good, you will create the coordinates and path of where you plan on going & lastly, SET SAIL! For my first sailing experience, I said goodbye to friends in Vavaʻu, hopped onboard with all of my stuff, picked my sleeping spot, helped set the coordinates for Fiji, picked up the anchor, checked out with immigration, and left the harbor for the open waters across some of the South Pacific.

Sailing Tonga to Fiji

Hitching a sail Pacific Islands Hitching a sail Pacific Islands
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Other Resources

Findacrew – https://www.findacrew.net/

I didnʻt find any luck using this site as yea, sailors having service on the open seas is 0% probability. But it was a great resource to up your chances on maybe finding a boat going in the direction you wish.

findacrew website

 

Facebook Groups

A facebook search online for Sailboats seeking crew can be found all over the world based on the regions of the world. For example, I joined the South Pacific sail community and posted “blasts” communication my travel intentions, path, and/or information on how to hitch around the Pacific Islands.

 

Happy Sailing

 

Hitching a sail Pacific Islands

Categories
General Hawai'i Oʻahu

Lanikai Pillbox Hike | Full Hike In Reverse

Lanikai Pillbox Hike Map
Lanikai Pillbox Hike Map – I went from the quiet southern end to the crowded northern.

One of Oʻahuʻs most popular hikes on the islands east shore is the Lanikai Pillbox along the Kaʻiwa ridge. The hike is on every to do list when searched by every tourist that comes here. With that being said, just about everyone parks in the neighborhood adjacent to the imfamous beach, walks up the ridge to the pillboxes, and back. But what people miss is the full extent of the hike on the ridge which is why I chose to do it in reverse.

Lanikai Pillbox hike

First of all…

Is this an easy hike?

Answering that is always interesting from a local standpoint. With millions of visitors visiting these islands from all kinds of places, itʻs easy to say most people arenʻt prepared for most of Oʻahuʻs hikes. Iʻve heard people grunt and grobble at Diamond Head as a tough hike. While Oʻahu has an infrastructure for hiking with designated trails, Oʻahu is definitely not Disneyland. Hikes are as rugged as it gets and you will not find rails built on steep walks. With that being said, come prepared with proper walking shoes on Lanikai, as the walk up is fairly steep, with loose rocks enough to fall and get injured. On my hike alone, I saw one Japanese man covered in brown apparently from a slide in rocks. (He wore white pants & shirt, go figure.)

Is the Lanikai Pillbox Hike Hard

Lanikai Pillbox HikeLanikai Pillbox Hike

The trail heads are on two opposite ends ending in two different neighborhoods which is why the hike will depend on the parking situation. But either way, the hike can be completed as an “in and out” one.

Take DaBus

I took the bus straight from my home in Diamond Head all the way to a stop near the trailhead. Take the Bus 67 to “Keolu Dr + Akumu St”. Then walk all the way down Kamahele street until the gate and walk up the stairs that will eventually take you up to the first hill.

Lanikai Pillbox Hike Bus

 

The Multiple Peaks

In my opinion, some of the peaks further from the pillboxes deliver the best views of everything. You have Panoramic views of the Koʻolau mountains, Olomana Peaks & ridge, views all the way down from Manana Island and Makapuʻu point, to MCBH and even clear views of the mountains at the Kualoa ranch including the Mokulua island, the two infamous island off the coast of Lanikai Beach. The highest peak is the second one which has the best views I just mentioned.

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

 

No Crowds

I anticipated that this was going to be my the best parts of the hike for one reason, it isnʻt crowded and I was not wrong. Everyone does just only visit the two pillboxes for their instagrams and leave, which is cool…i guess. BUT for me, I feel like a good hike is one that allows for a bit of outdoor getaway. Listen to the trees, bird, creatures, breeze. For Lanikai, there are no insects or birds per se, but enjoying the open air and sound of the bush with the wind & the views without the noise of other people really makes the difference in a hike. And finally, if you want an unobstructed photo of the Mokulua Islands and Lanikai beach, these are the best places.

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

 

Finally, the Pillboxes

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

The pillboxes are indeed a unique experience for a hike, getting a good view while standing on a bit of military history for the islands. Built in the 40s post Pearl Harbor times, itʻs easy to understand how important it was to keep watch for further attacks. Iʻve read that they were not equipped with weaponry, but for a means to keep watch for another attack. There are pill boxes scattered all over Oʻahu with these two being the easiest to access other than Diamond Head Crater. The highest pillbox actually has metal ladders allowing you to climb in and out for a unique experience.

 

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

Lanikai Pillbox Hike

 

Once you get in your Instagram photos amongst others taking Instagram photos, youʻll find yourself taking the descent back to the street. I actually found the descent to be far more complex than the opposite end I started in not to forget that it was far more shaded. It took me about nearly two hours from trailhead to trailhead but on a straight walk through with some breaks and photos, it could possibly be done in over an hour. All in all, a hell of a busy beaten path kind of hike. However, 75 percent of the actual full length is really incredible and often missed by many. Something I highly recommend to those who love a good hike, is to keep going to the last hill.

 

Aloha

 

Categories
Fiji General New Zealand & The Pacific Tonga Voyages

Sailing the South Pacific | An Inspiring First Experience

Sailing Fiji GoPro
Enjoying Fiji Day in the Mamanucas

My name is A. Perez Voyages and the word voyages comes with many different definitions. Travel via sea, air, or land. I’ve traveled by plane since I was a baby. By car in many different ways. Over the rails in Europe, Canada, and across the US of A. Ferries in Greece, Tonga, and Croatia. Hitchhiking from the Big Island of Hawai’i to Kosovo in the Balkans and explored New Zealand on a motorcycle. But the last remaining way for me to travel was by boat. Preferably traveling the sea via sailboat. For me, I feel like this is the true definition of a voyage, the oldest form of travel…of adventure. To seek new land on the open sea. Leaving New Zealand for the Pacific Islands only made this dream more seemingly realistic. The question was, how would I do it, from where to where, and with who.

 

My travels would begin in Tongatapu from Auckland, hitchhiking both on Tongatapu and Eua, a ferry up to Ha’apai islands, and a flight up to Vava’u. I have always read Vava’u as the beautiful stopping point for boats sailing from the east to west, French Polynesia and Cooks to Fiji or Aussie/NZ. This is where I would find myself getting all the info and knowledge I can to get myself connected with a captain. Fortunately for me, I was staying with a family in a small village who’s wife worked in a sail rental joint at the sail docks. Mango’s Cafe was the prime hub for yachts to come use unlimited wifi and have a nice meal on land after days maybe weeks at sea. I was instructed to talk to the manager of the cafe who then told me to come 8:30 next morning, the time he hops on the VHF radio and helps broadcast news out to the harbour.

Sailing South Pacific
First Day aboard the Rocinante & first sail

Sailing South Pacific

 

So I did just that! Woke up bright and early, got dropped off at the cafe, sat next to the manager, and got in my request send out for boats in need of crew. Oddly enough, my actual broadcast didn’t make it out as I didn’t hold the button on the radio. However, the manager’s generic broadcast did which was thankfully, good enough! “Wow, that was fast, usually people wait weeks”, was the managers response to that morning as a Swedish captain of a yacht responded to the request and connected with me to meet that morning. Long story short, I met with him, we connected, saw the boat the next day, helped out a bit, and found myself a ride to Fiji five days after that initial broadcast. I said goodbye to my friends on Vava’u, hopped on the boat, checked out with immigration, and after assisting with the steer out of the long bay from Neiafu, we set course for sail to Fiji.

 

Sailing South Pacific Tonga Fiji

Sailing South Pacific Tonga Fiji

Sailing South Pacific Tonga Wahoo fish Fiji
Fresh caught Wahoo along the way! Food for two weeks straight!

 

I joined as crew without any prior knowledge of sailing and that was well communicated very early with my travel companion. But in a matter of days, I started to learn some essentials and basics of life on a sailboat. 19 days I would be on this boat. 19 whole days! While we had plans to travel together for much longer than that, captains plans had changed and had to go home at some point. Our sail from Tonga to Fiji was absolutely pleasant and easy. Weather was good, no squalls, and no boats on the horizon. Just the captain and I out on the open sea with really good wind and lots of time to do….absolutely…nothing. I learned the calculation and use of knots, nautical miles, and calculating time and distance from boat to destination. Setting waypoint with coordinates and understanding how to read charts. Helping set sail and learning basic rope knots. Doing my best to not just sit around for a free ride although I split costs in the end that of which was diesel and food.

Sailing South Pacific FIji

Sailing South Pacific FIji

Sailing South Pacific FIji

Once adapting to the beauty of being on a boat and watching land disappear on the horizon, I soon realized, sailing really forces you to enjoy the bare minimums in life. While I was able to charge my phone via an onboard port, there is no signal to connect to the outer world, so phone use is redundant. I have some games on my phone but that was usually left to enjoy before bed. My phone was only utilized most to enjoy music at night. Otherwise in the end, there is a lot…I mean A LOT of free time outside of everyday boat maintenance and cooking. I have had enough time to write in my journal a few times including a postcard from Vava’u. Captain had a number of English books onboard which pushed me to read at least part of one book because I got so board. If the sun wasn’t so strong, sitting out back and looking out at the endless waves rock us was something out of a dream.

Sailing Tonga to Fiji

But as far as work goes, I wasn’t given much work to do since I wasn’t experienced at all. But along the way I was given a few tasks with helping the captain setting the correct sail and reeling in the sail. Helping steer while he managed things across the boat. Popping in coordinates for our sail to helping him set direction. I found the hardest and most difficult task was being night watch looking out for squalls and other boats. Which to be honest, horrified me at first at the though. Yea, sleeping was impossible that first night. Sleeping overall was just plain out impossible. Sleeping quarters for me was tight and the rocking made it really difficult to catch zzzs. I had to pad my sides appropriately so I didn’t rock into the walls over and over.

Sailing South Pacific FIji

Sailing South Pacific Tonga Fiji
First sighting of Fiji (Lau Island Group)

We arrived in Suva, cleared in with authorities in a two day time span and waited for weather to clear up to continue on. Despite the many places I recommended across the Fijian islands, his plans changed limiting us to a number of places before parting ways. Regardless, exploring Fiji via sail was not something I expected to do and was extremely grateful for the opportunity. We sailed to Beta island anchoring in the western bay for two nights. Sailed across the Coral Coast and into the reef for the Mamanucas Islands. Anchored at a small islet for a refreshing swim before a two night anchorage in Malololailai island. Very Resorty but was still nice to stretch out on land and have a decent swim. For our final bit, we motored passing Mana island and over and around Monu and Monuriki Island, the filming location for Tom Hanks Castaway. WILSONIAN!!!!

 

Sailing South Pacific Beqa Island

Sailing Fiji

Sailing Fiji

Sailing Fiji Monoriki

The final touch to our journey together was on Yanuya island. We had failed to buy kava in Suva. So in Malololailai, we bough half a kilo of kava powder for sevesevu before we parted ways. Sevusevu is a gift to a chief of a village in order to be welcomed into the village and surrounding area. When we walked into the village, we provided our kava to the elders, and received our welcome with a blessing and some kava drinking. Had I not been on the boat, I think captain would have sailed by and missed the experience. And the experience, he felt was amazing. In the end, we checked back in with immigration, I proved my onward travel and he checked out to set sail for Vanuatu.

 

Sevusevu - Traditional Fijian offering and welcome into a village
Sevusevu – Traditional Fijian offering and welcome into a village

Yanuya Island FIji

Overall, my dream come true voyaging in a new defining way was one of the most incredible highlights of my travels thus far. It was hard for sure. Not so much finding stability standing or using the toilet from the constant motion. Or the rolling around in bed at night to sleep. But sleeping period as taking turns at night to lookout for boats and squats made it really hard to maintenance proper sleep. But once you get used to it, the rewards are endless. We caught a massive Wahoo fish that fed us the entire trip. The sunsets were absolutely beautiful. The boat serves as a kitchen, accommodation, and mode of transport all in one. And lastly, the freedom you have to visit and see whatever you want at your own pace is by far the most rewarding. I am now in Funafuti, Tuvalu, what would have been one of our many stops had his plans not changed. Here enjoying the island on food and at my own pace but just imagining how it would have been via sail. Despite the changes, I will forever be grateful for that first opportunity to travel the open seas so freely. With that being said, that first time will not be my last.

Sailing the Fiji Islands Suva
One of those photos I will look back on and say, “I did it!”
Categories
General Nauru

Catching & Eating Noddy Bird | A Nauruan Tradition


Nauru is already an island very many people have not even heard of nor can pin point correctly, what region of the Pacific itʻs on. Most adventurers have in fact, heard of Nauru mostly because they are doing some sort of 190 countries achievement which seems to be the things nowadays. With that being said, those who venture to Nauru for a number often visit for a short two nights and take off, giving no opportunity into the life and culture of the island which is to be had. For me, I decided to stay 5 whole nights despite the hefty cost to my poor travel budget. However I will have to say that it was worth it. In 5 days, I was able to get a lick of the island language, Nauruan, met some locals to take me into some horrifying caves, and best of all, take a ride Topside to enjoy what I would later find out to me, the Nauruan tradition of catching Noddy bird.

Meeting islanders in the Pacific is one of the best things about traveling the Pacific & Nauru is no different. Especially considering the island nationʻs visa process filters our so much tourism, itʻs no wonder why locals are that much more enthusiastic about talking to foreigners. On my first night eating out at one of the many Chinese restaurants, I met a woman who helped me order food who would later become a friend, inviting me over to their home later along my Nauru trip, and inviting me to join her children on their moped Topside for a daily routine of catching some birds. To be honest, I was more intrigued with taking a journey with locals Topside.

When I arrived at the house at 6pm like they asked me to, I hopped on the back of one scooter & my driver handed me some long wooden pool with netting at the end. We rode 15 minutes before venturing back into the pinnacles rocks I had explored in direct sun days before. After tucking the mopeds away (since people actually do steal mopeds here), we all set up shop, the guys set up their pools and the netting to form a massive and long lookin lacrosse pool. They also set up a cd player connected to a megaphone with some sketchy wiring to play something. I mean how are they going to attract the Noddy bird? The CD had tracks of Noddy birds in distress. This would be the means to attract the Noddy bird to the location. The problem was, there was our group as well as about 7 other groups in the area doing this. Talk about “competition”.

Nauru noddy bird

Nauru noddy bird

Nauru noddy bird

It was a long and slow night according to them as they caught only 4 bird opposed to 30 or more on other nights. Catching them would make an animal rights person vomit and faint. The bird is grabbed by the tail, turned upside down and shaken to remove any unwanted food later on. After that, the catcher then bites the neck to kill the bird instantly. I asked one of them how was your first experience doing this. He said the blood made him feel terrible but got over it quickly. Me, yea…no! Once it became pitch black, we took the birds home and unloaded them for the true stomach experience.

The birds were all set on the floor & defeathered for obvious unwanted feathery ingredients at dinner. Then a torch is set on each bird for a minute or so, up, down and all around. I had learned that Noddy birds go for about $1 Australian on the street but for the tourist experience and personal curiosity to truly feel at home in Nauru, I had to eat and try Noddy bird. Two birds were set in a frying pan with oil like chicken wings & once done, a plate was set for me to eat with an audience (the whole family) to watch me. All i have to say, it was horribly….delicious. Tasted a little like chicken, yet somehow better.

This is what travel is all about! The taking of time to truly engage, embrace, and be a part of the life in where you travel to. You arrive as a traveler, and continue on as a local with the mindset that you truly never left in spirit. Catching & eating Noddy bird is only one of several experiences on this tiny island nation that serves as that example. As small as this island is, itʻs certainly huge in heart, spirit, and hospitality. Nauruʻs visa process may not make sense & be tedious as hell, but man…if and when you do get granted, you wonʻt regret the charm here.
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Coral Rock Nauru

Categories
General Tonga

The Friendly Islands | A Truth About Tongan People

Offloading in Ha'apai Islands
Offloading passengers in the Ha’apai Islands

Captain Cook is a name planted on every corner of major Pacific Islands. From New Zealand to Hawaii. For Tonga, Captain Cook classified the Tongan islands as “The Friendly Islands”, a title that has stuck to Tonga as a motto. I didn’t take note of this until I arrived in Tongatapu airport and saw signs all over the small airport terminal. I didn’t come to any conclusions about a place I hadn’t been yet, but the responses I got from a number of Kiwis about coming here were extremely negative and harsh. “Tonga? Why you wanna go there mate”. “Why don’t you go to Cook Islands or Fiji?”. Because I f***ing want to bro! “Bro they still eat people there.” Mind you these are people that do like to enjoy pricey resorts and relaxation so I can’t get too defensive.

Hitching rides on Tongatapu

Tonga realistically isn’t a place for those top notch relaxation resorts. I mean, resorts exist here, but they don’t match up to the standards of your stereotypical resorts. In fact, I find them more of a backpackers luxury fix, with accommodation set up to best of a locals ability to me at least some standards for comfort. The walls may be thin with visiting rats and the showers aren’t the cleanest but everything is there to meet a backpackers needs. Simplicity!

Helping water kava plants in Vava'u
Helping water kava plants in Vava’u
Gift from my friend in Vava'u before sailing to Fiji
Gift from my friends in Vava’u before sailing to Fiji

But apart from the low expectation to have when finding a place to stay, I was surprised to find out how incredibly kind the people were. I mean I didn’t expect them to be asshole nor did I expect them to be really friendly. Really friendly is what they were. I mean nearly everyone took time out to smile at me or smile back at me responding to my “Malo e lelei”. Whether I was on a bus, passing in the street in Nuku’alofa or Pangai in Ha’apai, the owner at Tisa’s resort, or the owner of a roadside shop. Hitchhiking works so well, people sometimes have gone out of their way to help me get to my final destination. Being taken into the home of a family in Pangaimotu, Vava’u was the highlight of it all. Being dressed to join them on Sunday church, eating Umu, showing me around the island and ways of life (Fertilizing kava, catering to taro plants, feeding pig and cow). But, just about everyone greeted me and treated me with lots of kindness and was a major highlight to my time in Tonga and even the Pacific thus far.

Hitchhiking with Tongans
Friendly locals picking me up on Tongatapu.

I don’t have expectations anymore before i go anywhere but I did know that there was a higher level of kindness across the Pacific islands. I usually have a natural awareness that people try to seek something in return from kindness. I say this because in Cuba, people were friendly but because of low wages people always wanted something in return, which is fine. But Bosnia & Herzegovina and Tonga remain as the two countries so far of the kindest people that went a long way to show kindness without asking for anything in return. Tonga for me and my travels, will always be remembered as one of the friendliest countries I’ve ever been to.

Show around Vava'u island
Show around Vava’u island
Lookout in northern Vava'u
Lookout in northern Vava’u